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by Plant Circle
Common pests: Thrips
Thrips are tiny pests that can wreak havoc on your houseplants—causing damage, spreading viruses, and hiding in hard-to-reach spots. In this guide, you'll learn how to spot the signs, treat infestations with natural methods like neem oil, and prevent future outbreaks with simple, effective steps.
by Plant Circle
Extrafloral nectaries
Have you ever wondered what those small sticky drops on the back of your Philodendron’s leaves are? If so, you’re not the only one! The phenomenon we’re talking about is often mistaken for bug damage or even a disease in the plant, and although it is bug related in nature, it is however not a sign of damage to the plant, but something called extrafloral nectaries.Extrafloral nectaries are, as the name suggests, nectar; a sugar-rich liquid which is produced by the plant in order to develop a symbiotic relationship with ants in the wild. In the wild, ants build nests amongst the plants roots, which help hold the nest together. The Philodendron, in turn, obtain nutrients from the nest, and the aggressive nature of the ants serve to protect the plant from other insects, such as caterpillars, that would otherwise eat the plant. Talk about friends with benefits! Philodendrons begin in the still young, not completely expanded, organs, and extend to the leaves of the second or third node from the base and it stop as the leaf hardens off, and then often fade away. Extrafloral nectaries appear in a wide range of size among the studied species, but rarely have a diameter above 1mm. Extrafloral nectaries are most often found on the leaves and petioles of the plant, and although they can be quite small and discrete, you can spot them by their different coloured border, usually yellow, black, purple or green, or wine-colored, which add an extra pop of color to the plant! In some cases you can observe an excessive production of nectar which can leave the surface of the plant covered with it. Nectar droplets can leave a yellow spot on the leaf, which does not look attractive, nevertheless it’s harmless and should not be confused with pests. Extrafloral nectaries are not harmful to the plant and represent a natural part of the plants life. Fun fact: the drops actually have a sweet taste, and are edible on some plants. But please check if yours is one of them before trying!Extrafloral nectaries are only found on Philodendron, Alocasia, and Culcasia among Aracae family.
by Plant Circle
Plant Care: Neem Oil
Plant people always talk about neem oil as the holy grail of plant care, and they’re not entirely wrong! Here’s how you use this natural product to keep your plants pest free. What is neem? Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Neem tree, or Azadirachta Indica. It’s been widely used in agriculture and horticulture as a biopesticide and a fungicide, as well as in Indian traditional Ayurvedic medicine, for centuries, and due to its many health benefits, components of it can also be found in anything from cosmetics, to soaps, toothpaste, and pet shampoos. How does it work on plants? Neem oil acts as a repellent, and therefore reduces the number of insects feeding on your plants. It also affects the hormonal system of bugs, which leads to lower reproduction rates. In addition to that, it can also kill insects by smothering and suffocating them when sprayed on the leaves.Neem oil is not toxic for humans, however if ingested it could cause severe gastrointestinal inflammation and irritation like stomach cramps or diarrhea. How to apply it? You can buy plenty of ready made pest control products that contain neem oil, but if you want to make your own, here’s how to do it! To make a basic neem oil spray, dissolve 1 tbsp of neem oil and 1 tbsp of castile soap, in 1l of warm water, and mix thoroughly. If castile soap is not available, an organic dish soap will suffice. If you’re making a pesticide you can also add a few drops of peppermint oil to your blend. If you’re making fungicide, omit soap and peppermint. Apply your neem oil mix on all parts of the plant using a spray bottle, while shaking the bottle regularly to keep the solution mixed, and paying extra attention to the undersides of the leaves where pests such love to hide. If you’re dealing with a pest infestation such as thrips, and are also using beneficial bugs, hold off on spraying for a few weeks, as you could accidentally suffocate your little helpers. Which pests does it kill? Which doesn’t it? Neem oil has proven efficient against most regularly occurring pests, including spider mites, thrips, aphids, scale, mealybugs, and even slugs. Mix, treat, repeat. The most important thing when using neem oil to fight pests is repetition. You must apply the mixture on plants thoroughly for at least 4 weeks, but ideally for 6 weeks, and you’ll see the best results if you spray your infested plants once or twice a week.It’s important to note that the active components of neem oil begin to break down after a couple of hours, which can result in a less efficient solution, so we recommend making a fresh batch before each treatment. You can also use neem spray as a preventative measure against pests if you’ve previously had an infestation, and want to make sure it doesn’t return!
by Plant Circle
Plant Circle at Home: Oliver
In the Plant Circle at Home series we’d like to introduce you to the people who make up the Plant Circle team, and offer you a glimpse of their homes and, most importantly, their plants! First up is Oliver! Let’s dive right into it! Where are you from, what’s your position at Plant Circle and how long have you been with the company?I’m originally from Canberra in Australia, a lovely city surrounded by, and full of, nature. I started working with Plant Circle in September 2017 and now manage the day to day operations of our physical store in Berlin. How long have you been living with plants and have you always had a thing for house plants?I grew up spending most of my time in the Australian wilderness, hiking through temperate rainforest and exploring deep canyons in some of the oldest forests in the world. I found myself working in a plant shop in 2013 and since then I have always been bringing plants home to be constantly connected to the natural world. How do plants affect the way you decorate your home? I am a strong believer in multi-functional living. The home should not only be a place of shelter, but able to fulfill multiple purposes, like cleaning the air, improving mental health, and personally a connection to my roots. Finding plants that are suitable and functional with a living arrangement is my premise when bringing a plant into a home. What’s a typical reaction when someone comes over for the first time and sees your jungle? Normally there is slight shock, but then inspiration, causing those guests to also want to fill their home with plants. What’s your watering and plant care routine like? I try to thoroughly water on a weekly basis in summer, but going into winter things change, and each plant is far more specific with their watering requirements. So really paying attention to each plant in winter is how I manage their care. When it comes to pruning and repotting, spring is always a busy time. What’s your favorite plant, and do species and rareness have a lot to say when you choose a new plant to bring home?Hoya Cumingiana, and all Hoya and Dischidia plants. Hoya wins. Every time, no doubt about it. When it comes to rareness, personally it doesn’t phase me. If I like a plant, I like it, and it doesn’t matter if it’s rare, has an official name, or whatever. Are there any plants that you love, but just don’t have the best luck with?I wish I had a more suitable climate for growing succulents, but sadly Berlin just isn’t kind enough in winter for me to grow them in my flat. What’s your best plant care tip?Use a high quality potting mix specific for the type of plant. Like people, if plants are eating shit, they’re going to end up like shit. Besides looking great, obviously, what are the benefits of living with plants in your opinion, and why is it important to you personally?Nothing can change a space to a place greater than a connection like symbiosis. I can make a house a home by caring for plants, and the plants care for me in return. Which plants would you buy as a present for a new plant lover, knowing it would be a hard one for them to kill?Hoya, especially the more succulent varieties, they always win. They can cope with some neglect, and they grow in such interesting ways.You will never get bored of owning Hoya!
by Plant Circle
Plant Circle at Home: Pietro
For our second installment of the Plant Circle at Home series, we’re visiting Pietro Zambello, friend of Plant Circle and collector of rare plants, Begonias in particular.Ready to feel like maybe you don’t have that many plants after all? Then read on! Hi Pietro and welcome to Plant Circle at Home! Tell us when you started collecting plants and why? I started collecting Begonia maybe two years ago, after a long time keeping and breeding frogs. I enjoy a good hunt, and I’m a collector at heart in the most victorian way imaginable, and somehow jungle plants and Begonia in particular caught my attention. I can’t quite explain why it had to be Begonias, I have struggled the same way to explain how I ever ended up with frogs! I did have phases in between, though, with corals, English roses, and South American miniature orchids, but Begonias just tick all the right boxes in my head! There’s something about the leaf colors and shape, and logic about these plants that’s just perfect.I guess a massive plus was iridescence, which I have always been attracted to, so I decided to focus on South East Asian non-tuberous species. How many plants approximately are there in your collection?Gosh, if you count all the propagation trays and mother plants, possibly a couple thousands? What’s your favorite species and why?I think Begonia Rockii. As I mentioned, iridescence is something I have been attracted to ever since stumbling across a 19th century text on bioluminescence in European forests. After many ridiculous thoughts regarding glowing plants and luciferase, I settled for the next best thing; iridescence!Begonia Rockii came into my collection only recently, and it’s a large species with fleshy hand-sized leaves that are as close as it gets to a mirror. “I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments”-Pietro Zambello What’s the easiest plant in your collection?My garden Begonia! I’m actually obsessed with Begonia Grandis and hybrids, with my all time favorite being Begonia Torsa.Massive leaves, slightly iridescent and indestructible. Spends winter as a tuber in my fridge. You can’t ask for more! What’s your most difficult plant?I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments. If a plant is being is difficult, it’s because it’s a non established plant, like a recent import. My imported plants usually needs weeks to pick up as Begonias ship awfully, and you need to bring back the homeostatic level over a long period of time, crowned by leaf losses and stem rot, repotting and moving through boxes with decrescent humidity levels. In most cases you end up with only a 2 square cm leaf wedge rooting! What’s the best piece of advice you ever got in regards to growing plants that you wish you had known sooner? Don’t bother them! Don’t overthink, over measure, try to figure out soils, and come up with new remedies. My grandma was growing incredible plants basically in the dark with zero knowledge, and they’d make some instagram scientist from today cringe. I’m learning this myself; that less is more. That maybe if instead of changing the growth medium every four days, I could just let the plant figure it out, and we’d both be happier. How long do you spend tending to your plants on a daily/weekly basis?I think about plants, like, all the time! It’s my safe space.I took my whole collection to work, so I can take a lot of little breaks during the day. Usually I’ll get to the plant room at the end of my day for a few hours, where I mostly repot or propagate. What’s the most valuable plant in your collection for you? (Not based on the market value)My blue Sonerilas. It was a gift I received from a friend after a night in Sumatra. I was there with my brother, and we had to take three flights from Borneo to reach central Sumatra, and ended up staying there only one night at my friends farm in the mountains, which we reached after dark, and after hours of travel by car. There I was shown these ridiculous plants, and many more, that are just blue and shine at the slightest shimmer. It was very overwhelming and surreal. None of these plants ever managed to leave Sumatra, as they ship terribly. I took home a 2 cm sprout and it’s a crazy feeling to have a plant that, besides not being described, you can’t even find and online record of! It was a process to figure it out, and I’m so happy I have many of them. I think I’m low key trying to recreate that night over and over. I was very happy. What do you see in plants that you think other people don’t and wish they did?Poetry What do plants bring to your life?Mostly a sense of control. I think about my plants every night before I go to sleep, and rearrange them in my head. I guess that’s what they bring to anybody? You feel in charge, without the pressure of feelings, as a plant is not in pain, and even if it’s is undernourished, it won’t feel hunger like for example a dog would. And then of course the positive feedback you get from seeing them grow, and the tiny moment where you think you cracked the code of life because you see a new leaf! And the panic three days later when it starts melting!
by Plant Circle
Plant Profile: Begonia
With over 1800 species and countless hybrids, Begonias are a leafy wonderland of color, texture, and personality. Whether you're drawn to their dazzling foliage or curious about rare species like Begonia Luxurians, this guide dives into everything you need to know—from watering tips to winter care. Bonus: expert advice from rare plant growers on keeping your Begonias thriving, vibrant, and pest-free. Ready to fall in love with this botanical treasure? Let’s go!
by Plant Circle
Plant Profile: Hoya
Take a deep dive into the world of Hoyas with Plant Circle’s in-house photographer Natascha. From velvety heart-shaped leaves to candy-scented blooms and ant-symbiotic growth habits, Hoyas are one of the most diverse and enchanting houseplant genera around. Discover their origins, care secrets, and why these non-toxic epiphytes are quickly becoming collector favorites.
by Plant Circle
Plant Profile: Monstera Deliciosa
Want bigger, fenestrated Monstera leaves? Discover Plant Circle’s top care tips—from moss poles to repotting tricks—to grow your healthiest Monstera Deliciosa ever.
by Plant Circle
Plant care: Hard water
What hard water really is, how you identify it, and how it affects your plants! Depending on where in the world you are, you’ll have a different quality of tap water, but for the purpose of this blog post, we will be talking about the quality of tap water here in Berlin! And as you may know, the tap water in Berlin has quite a reputation, and unfortunately it’s well deserved! For those of you who don’t know, Berlin’s tap water is notoriously hard… but what does that even mean? Let’s take a closer looks at what the term ‘hard water’ really means in practice for both you and your plants! What is hard water? By definition, this type of water contains an appreciable quantity of dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium, and the easiest way to find out whether your tap water is too hard for your plants, is by observing your plants, specifically the top layer of the soil. Calcium residue is often clearly visible on the top of the potting mix in your potted plants in form of white residue. Another easy, yet slightly more scientific, way of determining the hardness of your water is to measure the pH value of the water using measuring strips. Anything above 8.5 pH value is considered hard. So let’s say that you’ve measured the pH of your water, and you’ve found out that it is indeed above 8.5… how does that actually affect you and your plants? Well, first of all, hard water does not possess any health risks to humans. At worst, you might notice a slightly bitter taste, and it can definitely dry out your skin and hair, as Berliners know well! The bitter taste can impact the flavour of your tea or coffee, and we’re sure we don’t have to mention what the effects of dry skin are! Luckily, both can be remedied quite easily by installing a water filter on your shower and/or on your sink.Here you can easily see the difference between distilled water and hard, Berlin water on a pH strip. Number one is distilled water from a dehumidifier, number two is from a Brita filter, and the third is your standard Berlin tap water! Now, it’s not that we don’t care about the taste of your tea of the lustrousness of your locks, but let’s get back to what having this type of water means to your plants! In general, there isn’t a single plant that actually likes hard water, however some tolerate it better than others. But for the sake of your plants, let’s choose to focus on the plants that don’t tolerate it well, and how you can actually tell just by looking at them! As mentioned earlier in the post, the first thing you’ll see is a calcium carbonate and salt build up on the top layer of your potting mix, which suggests that your tap water is too hard. This alone is problematic, as all of that salt and calcium will start building up around the roots too, and will eventually start to repel water. Doesn’t sound good, does it? So how do you fix that? You start by removing the top layer of the soil, or completely changing the potting mix, and switching to filtered, distilled, osmosis, or rainwater. You can also try to flush it out by giving your plant a shower. This of course works best if your shower has a filter installed on it already! Another common sign that your water is too hard on your plants are brown, crispy, burnt edges of their leaves. This happens very often to plants from the family Marantaceae, like Maranta and Calathea, with the latter being the more sensitive to hard water. Unfortunately a popular portable water filter, like Brita, won’t be enough in this case… these absolute divas will only truly thrive if you water them with distilled or osmosis water! Another group of plants that will suffer terribly when being watered with water that’s too are carnivorous plants. These guys are simply unable to produce the juice they use to trap insects when the water is too hard, which results in them being unable to get their nutrients to survive. Under no circumstances do you want to water them with anything other than distilled water! Besides the aforementioned species, the health of any plant can suffer the consequences of being watered with hard water. If you spot burnt edges or calcium buildup, you’ll know it’s either the result of the water in your home being too hard, or a lack of sufficient humidity in the room, and you can take immediate steps to remedy the situation. With this knowledge, growing happy Calatheas or carnivorous plants shouldn’t be an issue anymore!
by Plant Circle
Plant profile: Calathea
Calatheas are popular houseplants mainly because of their beautiful patterns, but the truth is, these are not simple houseplants, but real divas that need a lot of informed care! Want to become an expert? Read on! Calatheas are also called prayer plants, because they point their leaves upward at night like hands held together in prayer. Once the day begins, the leaves lower again, and some say they can hear a crackling noise during this process. These living sundials are exciting plants precisely because they are so alive and ever-changing! Calatheas belong to the Marantaceae family and are native to tropical areas of South America. In tropical regions they were used as roofing and for weaving baskets, which gave them their name. ‘Calathea’ comes from the Greek and literally means ‘basket’! Now, in order for you to have the best chance of success with this rather demanding species, we’ve gathered our best care tips and best practices below, and even included a list of Calatheas ranging from ‘beginner’ to ‘advanced’, so you can start off successfully and build your collection from there! Humidity. This type of plant, as we already mentioned, does need quite a lot of care, and especially a relatively high humidity to stay beautiful in our home, which is why some indoor gardeners do not dare caring for them.At least 60 percent in winter and 70 to 80 percent during the growing season from March to September are ideal conditions for Calathea. If the humidity in your home is too low, some Calatheas will quickly get brown and dry leaf margins. Also, the risk of them getting spider mites increases with lower humidity and, believe us, Calathea are unfortunately proper spider mite magnets!Note: Some Calatheas, especially those in the ‘beginner’ category of the list below, retain their beautiful leaves despite drier conditions. Watering. Calatheas like to be kept moist, but not wet – they don’t like to dry out too much. When they are thirsty, Calatheas show it with curled-up and droopy leaves. That’s when you should give them a good soak at the latest, and they will be back to their former stunning selves within a day.Important: Calatheas will not tolerate your regular old tap water! Highly sensitive to hard water, these babies require water that is room temperature and soft, so think distilled water, or at the very least well filtered! Soil. Despite their well earned diva reputation, prayer plants are actually not too picky when it comes to soil. They prefer a relatively well-draining, lightweight potting mix, but not as loose as you would use for your aroids, for example. A mixture of 50% coco coir, 30% perlite and 20% bark would work, or you can add about a quarter of sphagnum moss to three quarters of your go-to aroid mix to make it a bit more moisture retentive. Light. In their native countries, Calatheas grow as hanging and climbing plants, or ground covers in the rather shady undergrowth of the rainforest. That’s why Calatheas don’t like too much light at home either; their ideal conditions would be a warm, draught-free, semi-shaded location without direct sunlight.Depending on their pattern, however, certain Calatheas, such as the White Fusion, need more light.If left too bright, Calatheas like to lower their leaves steeply, and that’s the great thing about this plant species; they may be divas, but they clearly communicate their needs! Pests. As mentioned above, spider mites are a Calathea lover’s worst nightmare! These annoying bugs love prayer plants, so it is important to check the underside of their leaves very frequently for white spots that could prove to bespidermite eggs. There are a lot of ways to get rid of them. Our favourite is a solution of Neem oil, water and organic soap (with a teaspoon of pure alcohol if you want to go the extra mile) with which you can gently clean all your Calatheas leaves from both sides and its stems. Dormancy. Although Calatheas are not known to go dormant, but they do go through phases of growth and demise, which means that they will sometimes start to drop a majority of their leaves. It is a shocking process, but you must not give up on your Calathea then! In a lot of cases, it will come back with a lot of new leaves once it goes into its growth phase again. As long as the rhizomes in the soil are healthy, all you need is patience. Propagation. Calatheas cannot be propagated through cuttings, unfortunately. The only way to multiply a Calathea is by division, meaning you can simply divide the leaves of one plant including its rhizomes and roots into two and plant them up again. Easy as that! If you want to test your feel for prayer plants, start with the simpler varieties we’ve listed below, and if you follow these tips, you’ll be mastering the ‘advanced’ category in no time!Bonus info: Calatheas are not poisonous, which means they are pet friendly and not toxic to either cats or dogs, so this is the perfect genus for the patient plant and animal lover! Beginner: Musaica ‘Network’ Medallion Vittata Concinna ‘Freddie’ Lancifolia Easygoing siblings from the Marantaceae family: Ctenanthe burle-marxii Maranta Leuconeura var. erythroneura Stromanthe Triostar Ctenanthe setosa 'Grey Star' Stromanthe Trio Star Maranta Leuconeura ‘Lemon Lime’ Advanced: Orbifolia Fasciata Beauty Star Flame Star Makoyana Rufibarba Roseopicta Helen Kennedy Expert: Zebrina White Fusion Warscewiczii Ornata Sanderiana Crocata Special thanks to Plant Circle’s Sarah Remsky for her expertise! Follow her on instagram and, if you speak German, check out her book too.
