by Plant Circle

Calathea Care Guide: How to Keep These Drama Queens Happy (And Why They're Worth It)

Let's be honest: Calatheas have a reputation. They're the high-maintenance friends of the plant world – gorgeous, captivating, and absolutely capable of throwing a tantrum if you look at them wrong. But here's the thing: once you understand what these tropical beauties actually need, they're not impossible. Just... particular. If you've ever fallen in love with those stunning patterned leaves only to watch them crisp up and curl within weeks, you're not alone. Calatheas (now technically called Goeppertia, but we'll get to that) are native to the Brazilian rainforest floor, and they have very specific opinions about their living conditions. But when you get it right? They're absolutely worth the effort. What Are Calatheas (And Why Did They Change the Name)? Calatheas are tropical plants from the Marantaceae family, known for their incredibly decorative foliage with patterns that look hand-painted. In 2012, botanists reclassified most Calatheas into the genus Goeppertia based on genetic research, but let's be real – everyone still calls them Calatheas, and that's fine. (Even we do it.) What makes them special? Beyond the stunning leaf patterns, Calatheas are nyctinastic, meaning their leaves move throughout the day in response to light. They fold up at night (called "praying") and open again in the morning. It's like having a plant that does yoga. Why Are Calatheas So Hard to Keep Alive? Here's the truth: Calatheas aren't hard because they're delicate – they're hard because most homes don't naturally provide rainforest conditions. In their native Brazilian habitat, they grow on the forest floor under a dense canopy, where it's: Consistently warm (18-27°C) Incredibly humid (60-80%) Shaded with filtered, indirect light Watered with soft, pure rainwater Growing in rich, well-draining organic soil Your Berlin apartment in winter? Probably dry, drafty, and lit by weak northern light. That's the challenge. But it's not impossible to bridge that gap. How Much Light Do Calatheas Need? This is where most people mess up. Calatheas need bright, indirect light – but what does that actually mean? Perfect light: A spot near an east or north-facing window where the plant gets plenty of ambient brightness but no direct sun rays hitting the leaves. Think "bright enough to read a book comfortably" but not "sunbeam on the floor." Too much light: Direct sun will scorch and fade those beautiful patterns. You'll see bleached, crispy leaf edges and washed-out colors. Too little light: The plant will survive but won't thrive. Growth slows, colors dull, and the leaves won't fully open or move as dramatically. Pro tip: If you only have bright windows, use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light. Calatheas can also do well under grow lights – aim for 10-12 hours of moderate-intensity LED light. What's the Deal with Calathea and Water? Water is where Calatheas get really picky. They want consistent moisture (not wet, not dry – moist) and they're sensitive to water quality. How Often to Water Calatheas Water when the top 2-3cm of soil feels dry to the touch. This usually means every 4-7 days in summer, less in winter. The key is consistency – they hate drying out completely, but they also hate sitting in soggy soil. Use your finger or a soil moisture checker to test before watering. If the soil feels damp below the surface, wait another day or two. What Kind of Water to Use Here's where it gets annoying: Calatheas are sensitive to tap water, especially hard water with high mineral content (looking at you, Berlin tap water). The fluoride, chlorine, and salts cause brown, crispy leaf tips and edges. Best water options: Rainwater (collect it if you can!) Distilled water Filtered water (Brita-style filters work) Tap water that's been left out overnight to off-gas chlorine Water temperature: Use room-temperature water. Cold water shocks the roots. How Do You Increase Humidity for Calatheas? This is THE most important factor for happy Calatheas. They need 60%+ humidity, and most homes sit around 30-40%, especially in winter with heating on. Humidity Solutions That Actually Work Best option: HumidifierA small humidifier near your plant shelf is the most effective solution. Run it daily, especially during heating season. Good option: Pebble trayPlace your pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it creates a humid microclimate. Just make sure the pot sits on the pebbles, not in the water. Okay option: Grouping plantsPlants transpire moisture, so grouping them together creates a more humid environment. It's not enough on its own, but it helps. Meh option: MistingMisting provides temporary humidity that lasts maybe 10 minutes. It's better than nothing, but don't rely on it as your only strategy. Plus, wet leaves can encourage fungal issues. What doesn't work: Putting them in the bathroomUnless your bathroom has a window with good light AND you shower multiple times a day, this won't provide consistent enough humidity. What Soil Do Calatheas Need? Calatheas need soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged – a tricky balance. Standard potting soil is usually too dense. Ideal Calathea soil mix: 50% quality potting soil 20% perlite or lava rocks for drainage 20% coco coir for moisture retention 10% worm castings or compost for nutrients Or save yourself the trouble and use our Calathea & Maranta Potting Mix, which is specifically formulated for these picky plants. The mix should be light, airy, and slightly acidic (pH 6.0-6.5). Good drainage is critical – Calatheas are prone to root rot if they sit in wet soil. How Do You Identify Different Calathea Varieties? There are dozens of Calathea varieties, each with distinctive leaf patterns. Here are some of the most popular: Calathea Roseopicta (Rose Painted Calathea) Large, round leaves with pink, cream, or purple patterns radiating from the center. Varieties include 'Dottie' (dark with pink outlines), 'Rosy' (pink centers), and 'Surprise Star' (cream and pink variegation). Calathea Zebrina Bold, dark green stripes on light green leaves that look exactly like zebra stripes. One of the most dramatic varieties. Shop Calathea Zebrina → Calathea Ornata (Pinstripe Calathea) Dark green leaves with thin pink or white pinstripes. The pink fades to white as the plant matures, which is normal (not a sign of stress). Calathea Lancifolia (Rattlesnake Plant) Long, narrow leaves with dark green spots along the edges and burgundy undersides. More tolerant than other Calatheas – a good beginner variety. Calathea Musaica (Network Calathea) Intricate mosaic pattern that looks like stained glass or a network of veins. Absolutely stunning and surprisingly resilient. Shop Calathea Musaica → Calathea White Fusion White, green, and purple variegated leaves with a watercolor effect. Absolutely gorgeous and absolutely the most dramatic of the bunch. Shop White Fusion → Calathea Majestica 'Whitestar' Long, lance-shaped leaves with bold white stripes. More upright growth habit than most Calatheas. Shop Whitestar → Do Calatheas Need Fertilizer? Yes, but gently. Calatheas are sensitive to fertilizer salts, so less is more. Fertilizing schedule: Spring/Summer (growing season): Every 4 weeks with diluted liquid fertilizer at half strength Fall/Winter (dormant period): Every 8 weeks or not at all Use a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) or one formulated for foliage plants. Organic options like worm tea or diluted fish emulsion work well and are gentler on sensitive roots. Signs of over-fertilizing: Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges, salt buildup on soil surface, stunted growth. Why Are My Calathea Leaves Turning Brown? Brown edges and tips are the #1 Calathea complaint. Here's what causes it: Brown, Crispy Edges Cause: Low humidity, tap water with high minerals, or inconsistent watering. Fix: Increase humidity, switch to filtered/distilled water, and maintain consistent soil moisture. Brown Spots on Leaves Cause: Fungal or bacterial infection, often from water sitting on leaves or poor air circulation. Fix: Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation, avoid getting water on foliage, and reduce humidity slightly if it's excessive. Yellowing Leaves Cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or root rot. Fix: Check roots for rot (mushy, black roots), repot in fresh soil if needed, and reduce watering frequency. Curling Leaves Cause: Underwatering or low humidity. Fix: Water more consistently and increase humidity immediately. Fading Patterns Cause: Too much direct light. Fix: Move to a shadier spot or filter the light with a sheer curtain. How Do You Propagate Calatheas? Unlike many houseplants, you can't propagate Calatheas from cuttings. They grow from rhizomes (underground stems), so the only way to propagate is by division. How to Divide Calatheas Remove the plant from its pot during repotting (spring is best) Gently shake off excess soil to expose the root system Look for natural divisions where the plant has multiple growth points Carefully separate sections, ensuring each has roots and at least 2-3 leaves Plant each division in fresh, appropriate soil mix Water lightly and keep humidity high while they establish Warning: Division is stressful for Calatheas. Only do it when the plant is healthy and actively growing, and expect some leaf loss during recovery. Are Calatheas Pet-Safe? Yes! Calatheas are non-toxic to cats, dogs, and humans. This makes them a great choice if you have curious pets who like to nibble on plants. That said, eating large quantities of any plant can cause mild stomach upset, so it's still best to keep them out of reach if your pets are particularly enthusiastic plant munchers. Common Calathea Pests Calatheas can attract spider mites, especially in low humidity. You'll notice fine webbing on leaves and tiny moving dots on the undersides. Treatment: Increase humidity immediately (spider mites hate moisture) Wipe leaves with a damp cloth to remove mites Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap Isolate the plant to prevent spread Fungus gnats can also be an issue if the soil stays too wet. Use bio traps and allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. When and How to Repot Calatheas Repot every 1-2 years in spring when the plant becomes rootbound. Calatheas don't mind being slightly rootbound, so don't rush to upsize. Signs it's time to repot: Roots growing out of drainage holes Water running straight through without being absorbed Plant drying out much faster than usual Visible roots circling the soil surface Repotting tips: Only go up one pot size (2-5cm larger in diameter) Use fresh Calathea-specific soil mix Water lightly after repotting and keep humidity high Expect some stress and leaf loss – this is normal Are Calatheas Worth the Effort? Look, we're not going to lie to you: Calatheas are high-maintenance. They require attention, the right conditions, and a bit of trial and error to figure out what works in your specific space. But when you get it right? When those leaves unfurl with perfect patterns, when they fold up at night like they're saying goodnight, when you walk past and catch that burgundy underside catching the light? Absolutely worth it. They're not beginner plants, but they're not impossible either. If you can provide consistent humidity, filtered water, and indirect light, you can keep a Calathea happy. Start with a more forgiving variety like Lancifolia or Musaica, learn what works, and then graduate to the drama queens like White Fusion. In the end is it better to have loved and lost or to have never loved a calathea at all? Ready to take on the challenge? Browse our Calathea collection and find your perfect patterned plant. We ship across the EU with expert packaging, and every plant comes with care instructions to set you up for success. Happy plant parenting, and may your Calathea leaves stay crispy-free! 🌿✨