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Living Christmas Tree – Picea glauca ‘December’ (White Spruce)

Name: Living Christmas Tree – Picea glauca ‘December’ (White Spruce)
Brand: Geen
SKU: MM-MEC-0396
Price: 24.2 EUR
Availability: InStock

€24,20 EUR

Tax included. Shipping calculated at checkout.

Bring Festive Cheer Home—Without the Waste

Picea glauca 'December' | Fast EU shipping | Grown with love in the EU | Sustainable living tree

Summary: This adorable miniature spruce is the perfect eco-conscious alternative to a cut Christmas tree—fresh, fragrant, and endlessly reusable.

✨ Why You'll Love the Picea glauca 'December'

Living Christmas tree that can be reused year after year—no waste!
Fresh pine scent and classic conical shape evoke traditional holiday vibes
Perfect size for German apartments, balconies, or festive tabletops
Choose from two sizes: ⌀19 H50 cm (Large) or ⌀26 H90 cm (XL)
Can be planted outdoors after the season or kept container-grown for years

🌞 Light & Placement

Loves bright, indirect light indoors during the winter holidays. If kept year-round, place in a sunny outdoor spot—balconies, terraces, or sheltered gardens are ideal.

💧 Water & Humidity

Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Indoors, avoid placing near radiators. Mist occasionally if air is dry.

🪴 Soil & Potting

Use well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Repot into a slightly larger container after winter if kept long-term, or plant directly into your garden in spring.

🐾 Toxicity & Safety

Non-toxic to humans but mildly toxic to pets if ingested. Keep curious pets from nibbling the needles.

🌱 Growth & Propagation

Slow-growing conifer that will gradually grow taller with time. Not typically propagated at home—best left to nurseries.

📆 Seasonal & Special Care

Decorate for the holidays with lightweight ornaments or felt decorations (like the ones shown!). After the holidays, slowly transition it to a cooler location before moving outdoors in spring.

🐛 Common Issues

Watch for dry needle drop indoors—usually from low humidity or heat stress. Spider mites may appear in dry environments; rinse or mist foliage to deter them.

🧬 Botanical Background

Picea glauca, or White Spruce, is native to North America and known for its beautiful blue-green needles and dense, symmetrical form. The 'December' cultivar is specially grown for compact size and indoor display during the festive season.

🛒 Ready to transform your home into a jungle paradise?

Add Picea glauca 'December' to your cart and enjoy fast, secure shipping across Germany and the EU!

Orders & support

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Can you ship my order at a later date?

No, we can not put orders on hold. It is best if you wait to place your order if you need the shipping delayed.

Where are orders dispatched from?

In order to ensure the best quality and shorten the transit time for plants, we ship all of our plants directly from our growers in the Netherlands.

Will I receive an invoice for my order?

You will automatically receive an order confirmation email once you place your order. If you need an invoice, please contact our customer service at support@plantcircle.com.

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by Plant Circle

3 simple tips for beginner plant parents

Have you been wanting to start a plant collection of your own this year? If so, we wanna get you off to a good start with some simple tips for beginner plant parents that will make you feel successful from the get go! Experienced plant owners can read along too! If you are new to growing plants indoors you might find yourself reading a lot of conflicting information online on how to care for your green buddies. After years of running workshops and answering your questions in person, as well as online, we have decided to put together our top 3 simple tips for beginner plant parents that can be universally applied to all plants in all sorts of conditions! 1. Give your plant sufficient light. Bright enough light for houseplants won’t be found in rooms or hallways that have no windows, or if plants sit in corners more than 1,5 m from windows. Please keep your plants close to windows or under (grow) lights. That being said, a lot of popular plants grown at home do not tolerate direct sunlight, it can literally burn their leaves! In practice, this means that if you have south or west facing windows, it could be dangerous to place your philodendron or monstera directly on the window sill during spring or summer. Most plants can withstand, and will even enjoy, a few hours of morning sun, but the afternoon sun can be a deadly. Please always google your specific plant’s light requirements before deciding on the perfect spot! 2. Learn how much water your plant needs. There is no universal watering advice for plants, and whatever you’ve been told about the plant you bought might not work for the conditions in your home. How often you need to water your plants depends on how much light they get, but also on the potting mix and planter it sits in. In order to determine how often to water your plant, please observe it as it will get droopy when it’s time for watering, and always check the soil with your finger, or a moisture meter, before watering. 3. Treat your plant to a quality potting mix. Plants tend to come in poor quality potting mixes, and we highly recommend always repotting them. But wait approximately 1-2 weeks after bringing them home before repotting them, so they have a chance to get acclimated! There is no universal potting mix recipe for all plants, but we find that just by adding a part orchid mix, part perlite and some charcoal you will improve the likelihood of your plant thriving in your home immensely!

by Plant Circle

7 things your ficus really hates

Ficus plants are popular for their lush, tree-like growth—but they’re also infamous for sudden leaf drop. In this post, we break down everything your Ficus hates (drafts, dry air, being moved) and share practical tips to keep it healthy and happy. Learn how to boost humidity, shake it like a tree (literally), prune properly, and avoid the stressors that lead to leaf loss. Whether you're growing a Ficus elastica, lyrata, or benjamina, this guide will help you master the care routine.

by Plant Circle

Beginner Plant Care 101: Light, Water, Soil & Signs Your Plant Needs Help

Becoming a new plant parent is exciting—but it can also feel overwhelming. Whether you're buying your first plant or just trying to keep one alive, we’re here to make it easier. At Plant Circle, we believe anyone can grow happy, healthy houseplants. Here's your Beginner Plant Care guide to the four basics: light, watering, soil & food, and spotting stress early. 1. Light: What Type Does My Plant Need? Plants need light to survive, but not all plants love the same kind. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different light levels and how to tell what you have in your home. 🌿 Types of Light: Low light: Areas with no direct sunlight. Rooms with north-facing windows or spots several feet away from a window. Medium light: Bright, indirect light. Near east-facing windows or a bit farther from a south-facing window. Bright direct light: Sunlight shines directly on the plant for several hours. Think sunny window sills, especially those facing south or west. 🪟 How to Tell What Light You Have: Stand near your plant and at eye level. If you look towards the light do you have to squint? Is it bright enough to read a book easily? If not, it’s probably low light. Is the sun actually hitting the floor or wall? That’s direct light. If it’s bright but you don’t see any harsh sunbeams, that’s medium or indirect light. 🌱 Common Plants for Each Light Level: Low light: Aglaonema, ZZ Plant, Snake Plant, Pothos – perfect easy plants to care for Medium (Indirect) light: Philodendron, Peperomia, Calathea Bright direct light: Succulents, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Cactus 🔍 Tip: Ask yourself, “How much light does my plant need?” and match it to your space before choosing your plant. 2. Watering: Not Too Much, Not Too Often One of the most common beginner mistakes is overwatering—but not in the way you might think. 💧 What Is Overwatering, Really? It’s not about how much water you give your plant. It’s about how frequently you do it. Most houseplants prefer to dry out a bit between waterings. Use your finger to test the top 2–5cm of soil. If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Always empty any excess water from the pot or saucer—no soggy roots! 🚱 Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing leaves Mushy stems Fungus gnats 🔄 Let the soil guide you, not the calendar! For More in depth on watering read our Blog Post: How to water your plants! 3. Spotting Plant Stress and Fixing It Even high quality rare house plants can show stress when they move into a new home. Your job? Keep an eye out for the signs and make small changes. 🔥 Too Much Light: Bleached or crispy leaves Move your plant further from the window or add a sheer curtain. 🌑 Not Enough Light: Leggy growth, small new leaves Try moving it to a brighter spot or rotating the plant weekly. 💦 Too Much Water: Yellow, soft leaves, root rot smell Let soil dry out more between watering. 🏜️ Not Enough Water: Drooping, dry, crispy leaves Water deeply and regularly check soil moisture. 🪳 Pests - Check out our pest guides! If other factors are good, yellowing leaves, sticky residue, webs, no lack of new growth can be indicators you have little buggies sucking up your plants strength. Look for tiny webs across the edge of leaves (spider mites) -especially with Alocasia Tiny Thrips will stunt your plant growth and new leaves will come out already yellowing. Confirm by seeing the tiny pale white devils on the underside of your leaves. 🧠 Observation is the best plant-care tool you have. 4. Soil & Food: What Your Plant Eats Matters 🌱 Soil: Why It’s Different at Home At the nursery, plants thrive in warm, humid greenhouses with perfect light. That’s why they can survive in dense, compact soil. In your home? Not so much. A chunky, well-draining soil mix is best. Use soil specific to your plant type (e.g. aroid mix for philodendron) Add perlite, bark, or pumice for better airflow Avoid compact garden soil in pots 🍽️ Plant Food: When and How to Feed Most houseplants benefit from feeding during spring and summer Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once a month In winter, most plants rest—skip the food 🌟 Pro Tip: Your philodendron will thrive in a chunky soil mix and light monthly feeding during active growth!

by admin

Common pests: Mealybugs

Mealybugs: The Cottony Menace Lurking on Your PlantsThink that fuzzy white patch is just harmless fluff? Think again. Mealybugs are sneaky sap-suckers that hide in plant crevices, draining the life out of your greenery and inviting mold and more pests to the party. In this guide, we’ll show you how to spot them, stop them, and prevent future infestations—because prevention is always easier than battling a mealybug army mid-attack.

by Plant Circle

Common pests: Spider mites

Spider mites are one of the most common pests and at a size that’s smaller than 1 mm, they sure make it difficult for us to spot and identify them! And while they may be tiny, the damage they do to your plants can be extensive. Let’s take a look at what warning signs to watch out for, and how to best get rid of them! There are many different kinds of spider mites in the greater family, however one of the most common ones, and the ones you’re most likely to find your houseplants, are the red spider mites, or Tetranychus urticae. But that doesn’t mean you won’t ever have misfortune of meeting the white or black spider mites, so beware of them too! Spider mites damage your plants by piercing the leaf surface and extracting cell contents. This leaves holes in the protective layer of the leaf, which then leads to moisture loss, and eventually drying out. It’s important to act fast as these pests can multiple at an impressive rate! A spider mite egg will hatch in as little as three days, and mites becomes sexually active at only five days old. One female can lay up to 20 eggs a day and with a lifespan of 2-4 weeks, she’ll be laying hundreds of eggs in her lifetime. This accelerated reproduction rate can allow spider mites to adapt quickly and become resistant to pesticides, so with prolonged use of the same pesticide, it may become ineffective. Keeping that in mind, your best weapon will be the speed and diversity of the treatment! There are a few signs that your plant will display that you should watch out for, so let’s go over those first! 1. Stunted growthHave you noticed that your plant is not growing new leaves in what feels like ages, or that they have this one leaf that just refuses to unfurl for weeks? That’s a good indication that your plant is currently struggling with something, and that something could very well be a pest infestation. 2. Tiny dots on the leavesSpider mites suck the juices out of a plant leaving behind bite marks in form of tiny dots, so that’s one of the first warning signs to look out for! 3. Tiny webs Finding small webs, and what looks like dust gathered in folds of leaves and stems, is another warning sign. If those webs are accompanied by red, black or white moving bugs, then you know for sure you have a spider mite problem!4. Yellowing of the leavesWhen the infestation is heavy, you’ll notice yellowing of the leaves, in both young and older leaves, plenty of tiny webs, and white-powdery stuff covering the leaves. If you see some, or all, of the above signs on your plants, you have a problem… but don’t panic! There are effective ways to combat spider mites, and ideally you’ll want to implement them all at the same time to have best chance of success! First things first. When you spot spider mite related damage to your plants, you’ll want to give them a thorough, high pressure shower, focusing on rinsing the leaves from different directions to try remove as many bugs as possible.Using a lint roller can also be a very effective way of removing the adult specimens from the leaves! When the plant has been washed (and/or rolled!) it’s time to apply insecticide. You can choose to fight spider mites the natural way with Neem oil (read more about how to use that in this blog post) or with a commercially available spray. The key here is to be consistent and apply it weekly for the next 4-6 weeks to target the mites in all their various stages of growth. The first time you only get the adults, and after a few days their eggs will hatch, and so on, so that’s why it’s crucial that you keep the treatment going. When you got the infestation somewhat under control, usually around 2-3 weeks into the treatments, it’s a good time to introduce predatory bugs. This will help you fight the remaining colony of spider mites with very little effort on your part! Spider mites prefer hot and dry living conditions, so if you notice any mites on your plants, regular misting during the treatment could discourage them from staying on your plants, but keep in mind that this alone will not eliminate them. Last but not least, it’s important to apply fertilizer to plants that are struggling with pest infestations to help them regain their strength to fight, and continue to grow!

by Plant Circle

Ferns: Are They Really So Hard to Grow?

Have you ever found yourself grabbing a stunning silver blue fern or a bushy Boston fern at the store, only to put it back when you remember how many times you’ve accidentally killed your previous ferns? We’ve all been there. I can’t count on the fingers of both hands how many ferns I’ve brought home only to watch them wither away. However, after some trials and errors, I’ve figured out how to grow them successfully and even discovered which varieties are hardy and thrive on neglect. Here are my best tips and findings to help you care for your ferns. Watering You might have heard the famous advice: “Keep moist but not waterlogged.” But what does that really mean? Essentially, it means that when you touch the potting mix, it shouldn’t feel dry, but it also shouldn’t be muddy. Think of it as watering more often with small amounts of water rather than a lot of water once a week. Here are a few things to consider: Planter Type: Avoid terracotta pots as they absorb moisture and dry out the soil faster. Unless you enjoy daily plant care, opt for a plastic nursery pot placed inside a decorative planter. This setup helps maintain moisture levels. Drainage: Ensure your planter has proper drainage. If you overwater your fern, you’ll notice water sitting at the bottom of the planter. Ferns dislike “wet feet” (unlike some plants like Alocasia) and can develop root rot if left in standing water. Water Quality: Use distilled or filtered water, or even rainwater if possible. This helps avoid any issues with the chemicals present in tap water. Soil One crucial step for fern care is to repot your fern as soon as you bring it home. Most store-bought ferns are pot-bound, and upgrading their soil can make a big difference. Here’s how to handle it: Fern Potting Mix 5L Pre-Repotting Soak: Generously water the plant and let it soak to loosen the root ball, making repotting easier and ensuring that the roots are more pliable, reducing the risk of damage during the repotting process. Soil Choice: Since ferns like to stay moist, a good potting mix would be coco coir with perlite and some peat to lower pH. Coco coir is known to retain moisture for longer periods, making it an excellent choice for ferns. A quick Google search based on the specific fern you have will guide you to the best soil type. Light While ferns don’t like direct sunlight, they still need a good amount of light to thrive. Please don’t place your ferns in dark corners or windowless bathrooms. The more light they get (without direct sunlight), the better they’ll grow. Humidity If your bathroom happens to have a window, it will be a great spot for your fern as they love higher humidity. Otherwise, speaking from experience, I had no problems with ferns in my Berlin apartment with average humidity. Recommended Ferns for Beginners For those new to growing ferns, I recommend starting with these varieties: Bird’s Nest Fern: Hardy fern that doesn’t mind if you forget to water it occasionally. It’s broad, arching fronds can add a lush, tropical feel to any indoor space, making it an ideal houseplant for those looking to bring a touch of greenery into their home. This fern thrives in indirect light and can tolerate low-light conditions, making it perfect for rooms without much natural sunlight. Additionally, it can help purify the air, contributing to a healthier living environment. Just make sure to keep its soil slightly moist and avoid letting water sit in the crown, as this can cause rot. Crocodile Fern: Super easy to grow and possibly the hardest fern to kill—as long as you don’t overwater it! It tolerates drying out between waterings quite well. This unique fern, with its rugged, crocodile-like textured leaves, makes for an attractive indoor plant. Additionally, it thrives in indirect light and is exceptionally adaptable to various environments. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, the Crocodile Fern is a delightful addition to your plant collection due to its resilience and low-maintenance nature. Boston Fern: This guy is definitely next level, but if you repot it and keep it far away from touch with enough space around it in a well-lit spot, it will grow like crazy! Additionally, it’s important to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, as Boston Ferns thrive in high humidity. Regular misting and placing a humidifier nearby can also aid its growth. Don’t forget to feed it with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season to ensure it receives all the necessary nutrients. With just a bit of care and attention, you’ll have a lush, thriving fern that adds a touch of natural beauty to any space. Asparagus Fern: Probably my favorite! This one definitely prefers regular watering and doesn’t like to be dry, but in my experience, it won’t die quickly if you ever water it a day late. Its delicate, feathery foliage adds a touch of elegance to any space, and it’s relatively forgiving when it comes to lighting conditions. Although it thrives in bright, indirect light, it can tolerate lower light levels, making it a versatile choice for various rooms in your home. Growing it near humidifier will help maintain its lush appearance and prevent the leaves from drying out, which is particularly helpful if you live in a dry climate or during colder months when indoor heating can reduce humidity levels. By following these tips, you can turn your home into a fern-friendly haven. Happy growing!Monika Like what you read? Why not sign up for our newsletter and never miss a blog post? Our Instagram is also a great place for plant care tips. Have a request about topics we should cover? Email monika@plantcircle.co with your suggestions! Disclaimer: This blog post is written from a well-lit Berlin apartment; please keep that in mind. If you live in a different part of the world, growing ferns at home might be easier or harder. Read about some of our other answers to some beginner house plant question here.

by Plant Circle

Green and Safe: Discover the Top Pet-Friendly Calatheas for Your Home!

Pet-Friendly Plants That Make Your Home a Jungle—Safely! 🐾🌿Got pets and a passion for plants? You don’t have to compromise. Calatheas are non-toxic beauties that bring lush vibes without the risk. From the bold ‘Medallion’ to the dreamy ‘White Fusion’, we spotlight five stunning, pet-safe picks that will keep tails wagging and leaves thriving. 🌱💚

by Plant Circle

Growing Variegated Monstera: A Comprehensive Care Guide

Variegated Monstera plants, such as the Thai Constellation and Albo, are prized for their unique patterns and colors but require special care to thrive. This blog explores Monstera variegation types and offers essential care tips, from light requirements to humidity control, for healthy, vibrant foliage.

by Plant Circle

Growing Your Plants from Plugs

Are you looking to expand your houseplant collection without breaking the bank? Starting your plants from plugs might be the perfect solution. In this blog, we’ll explore what plant plugs are and why they are a cost-effective and sustainable way to grow your favorite plants. From understanding the innovative tissue culture propagation method to providing a step-by-step guide on how to pot and care for your plugs, we’ve got you covered. We have a large collection of plant plugs for you to check out! What Exactly is a Plug? A plant plug is a seedling that was started and grown in an individual cell filled with potting soil in a laboratory. This method, known as tissue culture propagation, involves growing plants from a small piece of plant tissue in a sterile environment. Tissue culture ensures that each plug is a genetic clone of the parent plant, free from diseases and pests. This method is highly efficient and sustainable because it produces a large number of uniform plants in a short period, using minimal resources. By optimizing growth conditions in the lab, tissue culture reduces the need for chemical treatments and water, making it a cost-effective and environmentally friendly way to propagate plants. Plugs provide a cost-effective way to jump-start your houseplant collection. These well-developed young plants with strong root systems are ready for potting up. Step-by-Step: What to Do with Your Plugs When They Arrive Prepare a Plastic Nursery Pot: Select a small pot, preferably around 8 cm in diameter. Using a bigger pot will require more soil, which can retain excess moisture and potentially cause root rot. It’s better to start with a smaller pot and gradually pot up as the plant grows. Typically, when the roots begin to grow out of the holes at the bottom, it’s time to pot up. Prepare an Appropriate Potting Mix: Choosing the right potting mix is crucial for the healthy growth of your plant plugs. You can either purchase a potting mix specifically tailored for the type of plants you are growing or create your own blend. A pre-made potting mix ensures that your plants receive the optimal balance of nutrients, drainage, and aeration needed for robust growth. These mixes are formulated to meet the specific needs of different plant varieties, making it easier for you to provide the best growing conditions. If you prefer a more customised approach, you can mix your own potting soil. Start with a good-quality base such as peat moss or coco coir for moisture retention, and add perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage and aeration. Incorporate organic matter like compost or worm castings to enhance nutrient content. Depending on your plant’s specific requirements, you might also add ingredients like sand, charcoal or bark. We offer a large selection of potting mixes and soil improvers to help you create the perfect blend. With the right potting mix, your plant plugs will have a better chances to thrive and grow into healthy, mature plants. Base Mix 5L 12 € Shop now Planting the Plug: Carefully take the plug out of its packaging. You’ll notice that the root ball is often surrounded by a mesh or net. Gently remove this covering, being cautious not to damage the delicate roots. This step is crucial as it allows the roots to expand freely into the new soil. Start by adding a layer of soil to the bottom of your plastic nursery pot. This initial layer will help elevate the plug to the correct level and ensure good contact between the roots and the new soil. Place the plug in the center of the pot. Hold it steady and begin filling the pot with soil. As you add soil, make sure to cover all the roots and fill in any gaps around the plug. This helps stabilize the plant and promotes healthy root growth. Once the pot is filled, gently pat down the soil around the plug. This ensures that the seedling is firmly in place and that there are no air pockets, which can hinder root development. The goal is to make the seedling stable and secure in its new environment. Water and Fertilize: Water your plant with a light fertilizer, ensuring that you follow the recommended dilution rates on the package for optimal growth and health of your plant, and always remember to avoid over-fertilizing to prevent any potential damage. Place the pot in a well-lit spot, avoiding direct sunlight, to ensure that the plant receives enough light for photosynthesis without the risk of leaf burn. Alocasia Frydek Plug Shop now Now, it’s time to watch your plant grow! With the right care, your plugs will thrive and soon become beautiful additions to your home. If you don’t want to wait to see your plants grow, we recommend exploring our large and extra-large plant categories. These mature plants provide instant greenery and beauty, allowing you to enjoy the full aesthetic of a well-developed plant right away.

by Plant Circle

How to NOT kill a Cactus

Cacti are probably the easiest plants to grow yet so many people kill them so fast. Why? Let’s look at closer at what makes these plants tick so we can avoid some of the most common mistakes! Most of the cacti on the planet live in places that are subject to at least some draught and many live in extremely dry environments like deserts. They have adapted very well to those conditions by conserving water. A healthy cactus is made of whopping 95% water! If you think about it, it’s really just skin and water. Cacti love sun and will enjoy a few hours of sun a day in the summer. Just be careful to not burn your plant by leaving it in scorching sun on the balcony after a winter and spring indoors (we’ve done that). You need to ease them into that summer sun. Good way to do this is to let them sit on the balcony starting in the spring. Cacti can withstand cold during the night, as that is similar to desert conditions- warm in the day and cold at night. As we’ve mentioned before, cacti are found in some of the hottest and driest places on earth. How do they survive that? They have developed some amazing coping systems to survive. One of them is the development of stomate. Stomate are tiny, microscopic pores that are critical for photosynthesis. Thousands of them dot the surface of cacti and they’re responsible for photosynthesis. Traditional garden plants have their leaves covered with stomate, that open during the day for carbon dioxide intake, which is essential for their one stop photosynthesis process. Open stomate make plants lose moisture, so if you don’t water your plants adequately, they will wilt. Many agaves and cacti evolved to adapt to extreme heat and drought by keeping their stomates closed during the day, so there’s no moisture loss. Cactus pores open at night for gas exchange and when they’re open, cacti are capable of taking in moisture directly through these openings. Now, this is crucial information for better understanding how to water these plants. If their stomate are closed during the day, and moisture intake is limited as a result, it makes no sense to water them during that time, as the water won’t be absorbed! Because gas exchange is active at night, the roots are better able to take in water applied to the soil. Additionally, you can pour water over the head of your cactus to let it experience rain-like conditions. This will also clean the cactus’ skin by allowing water to penetrate the stomate! Fun fact: a prickly pear cactus paddle can survive to up to 2 years after being cut off the mother plant. This shows you how effective cacti are at preserving the moisture through closing their stomate. Now, knowing all of the above, you must remember that rain in the desert is not a frequent occurrence, so don’t water your cactus too often. We recommend every 1-2 weeks in summer, if the plant gets southern exposure, and every 4-6 weeks in winter. Ideally you’d want to force your cactus into hibernation, which we discuss in this article.

Living Christmas Tree – Picea glauca ‘December’ (White Spruce)