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Extrafloral nectaries

Have you ever wondered what those small sticky drops on the back of your Philodendron’s leaves are? If so, you’re not the only one! The phenomenon we’re talking about is often mistaken for bug damage or even a disease in the plant, and although it is bug related in nature, it is however not a sign of damage to the plant, but something called extrafloral nectaries.Extrafloral nectaries are, as the name suggests, nectar; a sugar-rich liquid which is produced by the plant in order to develop a symbiotic relationship with ants in the wild.    In the wild, ants build nests amongst the plants roots, which help hold the nest together. The Philodendron, in turn, obtain nutrients from the nest, and the aggressive nature of the ants serve to protect the plant from other insects, such as caterpillars, that would otherwise eat the plant. Talk about friends with benefits!   Philodendrons begin in the still young, not completely expanded, organs, and extend to the leaves of the second or third node from the base and it stop as the leaf hardens off, and then often fade away.  Extrafloral nectaries appear in a wide range of size among the studied species, but rarely have a diameter above 1mm. Extrafloral nectaries are most often found on the leaves and petioles of the plant, and although they can be quite small and discrete, you can spot them by their different coloured border, usually yellow, black, purple or green, or wine-colored, which add an extra pop of color to the plant! In some cases you can observe an excessive production of nectar which can leave the surface of the plant covered with it. Nectar droplets can leave a yellow spot on the leaf, which does not look attractive, nevertheless it’s harmless and should not be confused with pests. Extrafloral nectaries are not harmful to the plant and represent a natural part of the plants life.   Fun fact: the drops actually have a sweet taste, and are edible on some plants. But please check if yours is one of them before trying!Extrafloral nectaries are only found on Philodendron, Alocasia, and Culcasia among Aracae family.

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Plant Care: Neem Oil

Plant people always talk about neem oil as the holy grail of plant care, and they’re not entirely wrong! Here’s how you use this natural product to keep your plants pest free. What is neem? Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Neem tree, or Azadirachta Indica. It’s been widely used in agriculture and horticulture as a biopesticide and a fungicide, as well as in Indian traditional Ayurvedic medicine, for centuries, and due to its many health benefits, components of it can also be found in anything from cosmetics, to soaps, toothpaste, and pet shampoos. How does it work on plants? Neem oil acts as a repellent, and therefore reduces the number of insects feeding on your plants. It also affects the hormonal system of bugs, which leads to lower reproduction rates. In addition to that, it can also kill insects by smothering and suffocating them when sprayed on the leaves.Neem oil is not toxic for humans, however if ingested it could cause severe gastrointestinal inflammation and irritation like stomach cramps or diarrhea. How to apply it? You can buy plenty of ready made pest control products that contain neem oil, but if you want to make your own, here’s how to do it! To make a basic neem oil spray, dissolve 1 tbsp of neem oil and 1 tbsp of castile soap, in 1l of warm water, and mix thoroughly. If castile soap is not available, an organic dish soap will suffice. If you’re making a pesticide you can also add a few drops of peppermint oil to your blend. If you’re making fungicide, omit soap and peppermint. Apply your neem oil mix on all parts of the plant using a spray bottle, while shaking the bottle regularly to keep the solution mixed, and paying extra attention to the undersides of the leaves where pests such love to hide. If you’re dealing with a pest infestation such as thrips, and are also using beneficial bugs, hold off on spraying for a few weeks, as you could accidentally suffocate your little helpers. Which pests does it kill? Which doesn’t it? Neem oil has proven efficient against most regularly occurring pests, including spider mites, thrips, aphids, scale, mealybugs, and even slugs. Mix, treat, repeat. The most important thing when using neem oil to fight pests is repetition. You must apply the mixture on plants thoroughly for at least 4 weeks, but ideally for 6 weeks, and you’ll see the best results if you spray your infested plants once or twice a week.It’s important to note that the active components of neem oil begin to break down after a couple of hours, which can result in a less efficient solution, so we recommend making a fresh batch before each treatment. You can also use neem spray as a preventative measure against pests if you’ve previously had an infestation, and want to make sure it doesn’t return!

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Plant Circle at Home: Oliver

In the Plant Circle at Home series we’d like to introduce you to the people who make up the Plant Circle team, and offer you a glimpse of their homes and, most importantly, their plants! First up is Oliver! Let’s dive right into it! Where are you from, what’s your position at Plant Circle and how long have you been with the company?I’m originally from Canberra in Australia, a lovely city surrounded by, and full of, nature. I started working with Plant Circle in September 2017 and now manage the day to day operations of our physical store in Berlin. How long have you been living with plants and have you always had a thing for house plants?I grew up spending most of my time in the Australian wilderness, hiking through temperate rainforest and exploring deep canyons in some of the oldest forests in the world. I found myself working in a plant shop in 2013 and since then I have always been bringing plants home to be constantly connected to the natural world. How do plants affect the way you decorate your home? I am a strong believer in multi-functional living. The home should not only be a place of shelter, but able to fulfill multiple purposes, like cleaning the air, improving mental health, and personally a connection to my roots. Finding plants that are suitable and functional with a living arrangement is my premise when bringing a plant into a home. What’s a typical reaction when someone comes over for the first time and sees your jungle? Normally there is slight shock, but then inspiration, causing those guests to also want to fill their home with plants. What’s your watering and plant care routine like? I try to thoroughly water on a weekly basis in summer, but going into winter things change, and each plant is far more specific with their watering requirements. So really paying attention to each plant in winter is how I manage their care. When it comes to pruning and repotting, spring is always a busy time. What’s your favorite plant, and do species and rareness have a lot to say when you choose a new plant to bring home?Hoya Cumingiana, and all Hoya and Dischidia plants. Hoya wins. Every time, no doubt about it. When it comes to rareness, personally it doesn’t phase me. If I like a plant, I like it, and it doesn’t matter if it’s rare, has an official name, or whatever. Are there any plants that you love, but just don’t have the best luck with?I wish I had a more suitable climate for growing succulents, but sadly Berlin just isn’t kind enough in winter for me to grow them in my flat. What’s your best plant care tip?Use a high quality potting mix specific for the type of plant. Like people, if plants are eating shit, they’re going to end up like shit. Besides looking great, obviously, what are the benefits of living with plants in your opinion, and why is it important to you personally?Nothing can change a space to a place greater than a connection like symbiosis. I can make a house a home by caring for plants, and the plants care for me in return. Which plants would you buy as a present for a new plant lover, knowing it would be a hard one for them to kill?Hoya, especially the more succulent varieties, they always win. They can cope with some neglect, and they grow in such interesting ways.You will never get bored of owning Hoya!  

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Plant Circle at Home: Pietro

For our second installment of the Plant Circle at Home series, we’re visiting Pietro Zambello, friend of Plant Circle and collector of rare plants, Begonias in particular.Ready to feel like maybe you don’t have that many plants after all? Then read on! Hi Pietro and welcome to Plant Circle at Home! Tell us when you started collecting plants and why? I started collecting Begonia maybe two years ago, after a long time keeping and breeding frogs. I enjoy a good hunt, and I’m a collector at heart in the most victorian way imaginable, and somehow jungle plants and Begonia in particular caught my attention. I can’t quite explain why it had to be Begonias, I have struggled the same way to explain how I ever ended up with frogs! I did have phases in between, though, with corals, English roses, and South American miniature orchids, but Begonias just tick all the right boxes in my head! There’s something about the leaf colors and shape, and logic about these plants that’s just perfect.I guess a massive plus was iridescence, which I have always been attracted to, so I decided to focus on South East Asian non-tuberous species. How many plants approximately are there in your collection?Gosh, if you count all the propagation trays and mother plants, possibly a couple thousands?  What’s your favorite species and why?I think Begonia Rockii. As I mentioned, iridescence is something I have been attracted to ever since stumbling across a 19th century text on bioluminescence in European forests. After many ridiculous thoughts regarding glowing plants and luciferase, I settled for the next best thing; iridescence!Begonia Rockii came into my collection only recently, and it’s a large species with fleshy hand-sized leaves that are as close as it gets to a mirror.  “I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments”-Pietro Zambello What’s the easiest plant in your collection?My garden Begonia! I’m actually obsessed with Begonia Grandis and hybrids, with my all time favorite being Begonia Torsa.Massive leaves, slightly iridescent and indestructible. Spends winter as a tuber in my fridge. You can’t ask for more! What’s your most difficult plant?I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments. If a plant is being is difficult, it’s because it’s a non established plant, like a recent import. My imported plants usually needs weeks to pick up as Begonias ship awfully, and you need to bring back the homeostatic level over a long period of time, crowned by leaf losses and stem rot, repotting and moving through boxes with decrescent humidity levels. In most cases you end up with only a 2 square cm leaf wedge rooting! What’s the best piece of advice you ever got in regards to growing plants that you wish you had known sooner? Don’t bother them! Don’t overthink, over measure, try to figure out soils, and come up with new remedies. My grandma was growing incredible plants basically in the dark with zero knowledge, and they’d make some instagram scientist from today cringe. I’m learning this myself; that less is more. That maybe if instead of changing the growth medium every four days, I could just let the plant figure it out, and we’d both be happier.  How long do you spend tending to your plants on a daily/weekly basis?I think about plants, like, all the time! It’s my safe space.I took my whole collection to work, so I can take a lot of little breaks during the day. Usually I’ll get to the plant room at the end of my day for a few hours, where I mostly repot or propagate. What’s the most valuable plant in your collection for you? (Not based on the market value)My blue Sonerilas. It was a gift I received from a friend after a night in Sumatra. I was there with my brother, and we had to take three flights from Borneo to reach central Sumatra, and ended up staying there only one night at my friends farm in the mountains, which we reached after dark, and after hours of travel by car. There I was shown these ridiculous plants, and many more, that are just blue and shine at the slightest shimmer. It was very overwhelming and surreal. None of these plants ever managed to leave Sumatra, as they ship terribly. I took home a 2 cm sprout and it’s a crazy feeling to have a plant that, besides not being described, you can’t even find and online record of! It was a process to figure it out, and I’m so happy I have many of them. I think I’m low key trying to recreate that night over and over. I was very happy. What do you see in plants that you think other people don’t and wish they did?Poetry What do plants bring to your life?Mostly a sense of control. I think about my plants every night before I go to sleep, and rearrange them in my head. I guess that’s what they bring to anybody? You feel in charge, without the pressure of feelings, as a plant is not in pain, and even if it’s is undernourished, it won’t feel hunger like for example a dog would. And then of course the positive feedback you get from seeing them grow, and the tiny moment where you think you cracked the code of life because you see a new leaf! And the panic three days later when it starts melting!

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Plant Profile: Begonia

With a dazzling number of over 1800 species, and at least as many hybrids, Begonias are such a diverse plant family that it’s nearly impossible to not have at least one species you like! In this post we get really into all things Begonia, particularly how to care for them! Everyone probably knows the tuberous garden Begonias that bloom with huge flowers in summer, and the rich blooming Begonia Semperflorens types that adds pops of color to gardens and balconies long into autumn.But most Begonia species and hybrids aren’t grown or known for their impressive flowers, but rather the their leaves, which are the main points of interest when it comes to this plant! The wide variety of different, leaf colors, forms, patterns, and sizes, from tiny plants growing just 5 to 10 cm tall, to giants that can reach a few meters in height, prove that there really is a Begonia for everyone’s taste. The Begonia family is so widely spread all over the world that they have adapted to all kinds of different climates. But before you buy a rare Begonia, it is still important to do a bit of research about the conditions of their natural habitat. Do you have to give the plant wet soil, high humidity conditions and shade, for example in a terrarium, or is it better to keep your particular plant on the dry side with a lot of light? Although they have different needs, all Begonias are often quite good at adapting to new living conditions. The existing leaves can get damaged by a change in environment, but new developing leaves often won’t be affected at all. So don’t worry too much and feel free to experiment!In general most Begonias like their soil on the dry side between two waterings and don’t require a lot of fertilizer. Most of them dislike strong sunlight in the afternoon, and prefer well draining soil on the slightly acidic side.If you see your Begonia declining during winter, it’s usually due to a lack of light, and/or too much water. If you aren’t able to give your plant the extra light it requires in winter, try to find a spot where the average temperature is lower, for example in the bedroom, and dial back on watering significantly. Some Begonias can even overwinter at temperatures just above freezing point, for example Begonia Luxurians (Palm leaf begonia), as long as they are kept quite dry. Main pests and diseases are that can affect your Begonias are aphids and powdery mildew. The mildew often can be avoided by relatively harmless preventive treatments with products containing sulphur, and an aphid infestation can be taken care of with regular neem oil treatments. 7 quick Begonia tips from collector of rare Begonias Pietro Zambello: 1. Perlite is your best friend when working with South East Asian species, and try adding a bit of Akadama and soft limestone to your mix. Cane Begonias can take a heavier humus soil, mixed with Perlite, and you want it quite rich to sustain the growth. The Rhizomatous Begonias, on the other hand, like a more drained and mineral rich environment.2. Let them dry between watering,  and don’t water too much in general, with the possible exception of certain Chinese species, such as Emeiensis, that actually like to sit in a bit of water.3. Work clean, using clean blades, osmotic water, and disinfecting your pots and boxes. 4. Let them be, and don’t throw them away until they’re completely gone. You’d be surprised at how little a Begonia needs to pop back! Use sphagnum as a last resort.5. Leaf color will tell you when it’s time to feed, and leaf melting is your Begonia practically screaming that it’s overdue for a feeding!6. Offer them a lot of light, but no direct sun.7. Tuberous Begonias are great for low light, North facing balconies. Begonia Grandis are absolutely incredible, and besides having the advantage of being very hardy, they often develop strong iridescence as well. With Begonias becoming more and more popular these days, we expect even more new species being introduced in the coming years, so don’t forget to check our webshop on a regular basis! A special thanks to Begonia expert and rare plant grower Wilko Hofstede for sharing his Begonia knowledge for this post!

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Plant Profile: Hoya

In this plant profile, Plant Circle’s in house photographer Natascha takes a closer look at Hoya, a diverse and increasingly popular Genus! From the long, bean-shaped leaves of Hoya Wayetii, to the heart shaped Hoya Kerii, and the almost plate shaped leaves of Hoya Imbricata, a plant that lives in symbiosis with ants, Hoyas never seize to amaze us with their diversity!And while the more colorful varieties of Hoya Carnosa are especially loved by many, Hoyas charm us with their vast variety of shapes, colors and textures, with their beautiful foliage, often covered with pink or silver freckles, and of course with their small star shaped flowers, that can smell like chocolate and caramel.Animal lovers can also rejoice, even if their pets love to nibble on plants, as Hoyas are non-toxic to animals! First described by Scottish botanist Robert Brown in 1810, Hoyas can be found in the Tropics and Subtropics of Southeast Asia, the biogeographical Region Malesia, and Northern Australia, and the Genus Hoya was named in honor of Browns friend, the gardener Thomas Hoy. The Philippine islands are especially known for their richness when it comes to this plant! Hoyas are epiphytes, with some species even growing lithophytically, meaning that they attach themselves to trees, or grow on rocky terrain.They’re mostly found in treetops, and some even prefer specific wood types, like the Hoya Imbricata, which has a preference for mango trees. Sadly, many species are being lost due to the increasing destruction of their natural habitat. Especially in Southeast Asia, mainly the Philippines and Borneo, logging operations, the cultivation of monocultures, and increasing land development pose a huge danger to plants and wildlife, and every day an estimated 100 plant and animal species fall victim to the continuing destruction of our rainforests. Hoyas belong the Asclepiadoideae family, commonly known as milkweed, a subfamily of Apocynaceae, which include lianas and succulents, and they’re closely related to the Dischidia. A popular member of the Apocynaceae family that you may already know is Ceropegia Woodii, better known as String of Hearts!Some of the main traits of this Genus, which consists of about 350-450 known species, include milky juice, leaves arranged in an opposite pattern, and the typical cluster of umbellate flowers. Most Hoyas are vining or creeping plants, but some also grow as shrubs.The Swedish Hoya Society provides an extensive list of all Hoya species, for those of you wanting to dig deeper! Care and Propagation. An important part of Hoya care is watering, or should we say lack thereof. Never overwater! These succulent type plants can store quite a lot of moisture in their thick leaves, so they won’t necessarily need to be watered on the same schedule as your other green babies! Tip: If you notice little wrinkles on the back of your leaves, and the leaves are starting to feel soft, that’s a sign it’s time to water! Make sure you use a pot with a drainage hole and let the water run through. Substrate. Since Hoyas grow as epiphytes, you should make sure to use a well draining, loose mix hat prevents unnecessary wetness. Ideally choose a mix of pine bark, perlite and some sandy Bonsai mix. You can also pot Hoyas in Leca, and there’s quite a few recipes for the perfect Hoya mix out there. The Swedish Hoya Society suggests a mix of 50% premium potting mix, 25% Vermiculite and 25% Perlite! Fertilizing. During the growing period the plant can be fertilized periodically, ideally with a nitrogen rich fertilizer. Our Hoya gurus at The Swedish Hoya Society suggest using a phosphorus fertilizer in fall to support blooming. However, don’t forget that less is more! Too much fertilizing can disturb the plant and keep it from flowering. Repotting. Hoya roots like it snug and seldomly need to be repotted. Too big of a container might lead to increased wetness and eventually cause root rot or fungus. Propagation. Hoyas can easily be propagated by cuttings. Make sure to make the cut beneath an accumulation of nodes to ensure proper rooting. The cuttings can be rooted in sphagnum moss, water or perlite. If you root in water, make sure to change the water frequently. As soon as the roots reach a length between 5-10 cm, the cutting can be potted in a substrate of your choice! Pests and diseases. Hoyas are easy to care for and usually quite resistant to pests. Rarely you might find mealy bugs on the underside of the leaves and along the stems. Those uninvited guests can be easily removed with a q-tip dipped in ethanol. How do I get my Hoya to bloom? To support and provoke flowering, you might want to expose your plant to increased sun stress and longer drought periods at the end of winter. However, please note that these kind of measures might lead to chlorosis, which means the color of the leaves will eventually start to fade.Ideally just have some patience, nature always finds a way to surprise us!

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Plant Profile: Monstera Deliciosa

Plant Circle’s top tips on how to care for a Monstera, and getting the happiest, healthiest, and most fenestrated Monstera Deliciosa out there! It’s the plant that launched the plant families of countless plant parents; the iconic and highly loveable Monstera Deliciosa! But while this plant is generally a low maintenance kid, getting it to become a divine specimen like the one pictures below, takes a lot of love, patience, and a couple of inside tricks and tips. In this blog post, we are going to give you just that, so here are just some of Oliver’s top recommendations to help you grow the thickest, juiciest, most fenestrated fruit salad plant possible! The Monstera Deliciosa is a tropical climbing vine, that naturally searches for the tree tops by climbing up the sides of large rainforest trees. However, unless you have your own large scale greenhouse, it’s obviously unachievable to have such a supportive surface for your Monstera to climb, especially in a normal apartment setting. Why is this fact so important, you may ask? Well, as the Monstera is a climbing vine, the plant is unable to support itself in upwards growth. Without stem support, the Monstera will not begin to produce the large fenestrated leaves that we all desire. That being said, there are a few ways to trick your Monstera into thinking it’s in the rainforest, when growing it at home.  1. Use a Moss PoleAdding a moss pole to your Monstera Deliciosas pot gives it the possibility of rooting onto the pole and gain some much needed support that way. You will have to train your Monstera by tying the stems firmly, but not to tightly, to the pole. Bonus tip: try watering your moss pole with a liquid fertilizer! The added moisture and nutrients will encourage the roots to affix themselves to the pole, and feed the growth of the new leaves. If you’re not a fan of thee moss pole from an aesthetic perspective there is still hope… 2. Grow it horizontallyWhen planting and repotting your Monstera, try to encourage the stem to creep along the soil surface. In this case the soil is achieving the same benefits as it would if the plant was climbing up a tree. Additionally, nutrition from the soil will encourage large leaf growth. 3. Encourage Aerial Roots to find something organicAs the Monstera Grows each node will produce aerial roots which are often seen running away from the pot and sprawling across the floor. Try to train these roots to find some soil and thus support the plant. Bonus tip: when new aerial roots appear you can add some sphagnum moss to them, so they don’t dry out, and continue to grow until you can tuck them into the soil at the base of the plant. 4. Use the right substrateHappy roots play a major factor in growing a big, healthy Monstera, and like all plants, a suitable substrate should always be used. Using a specific Aroid potting mix will give your Monstera the best conditions, and the risk of root rot is significantly eliminated when using an aroid mix over other ‘general purpose’ indoor plant substrates.  5. Give the roots some space by dividing your plantRegular repotting is essential for allowing the roots to breathe. A pot bound Monstera will produce smaller, often deformed leaves, so repotting your Monstera at least once during the growing season is a must! In most cases, when you buy a Monstera Deliciosa, there will be more than one plant in the nursery pot anyway, so we recommend dividing the plant right away. One plant per pot means less competition underground, and your roots will be much happier.  6. Give her more light than you think she needs So now that you have happy roots, let’s get lit! There is nothing more important when it comes to getting those beautiful fenestrations than light. Monstera Deliciosas love bright, indirect light, and morning sun. If your plant isn’t getting enough light you will most likely be getting leaves without any fenestrations. If that’s the case, try moving your plant to a different spot, ideally a North East facing window, which is the most suitable. 7. Shower your Monstera!When watering your Monstera Deliciosa, try taking it into the shower, and give the soil a thorough watering. Be sure that some water is running out the drainage holes of the pot, that way you’ll know it’s had enough. At the same time, wash any dust off the leaves, as dust tends to prevent optimal light absorption through the leaves. After the shower, don’t forget to let the plant stand there and drain for a little while after watering, so any excess water doesn’t end up in the saucer! These are just some of the tips and tricks that we use to get our Monsteras to grow into lovely, large plants. We hope you can utilise some of this information, and give the world’s most popular houseplant the love it truly deserves!