by Plant Circle

Common pests: Fungus gnats

Fungus gnats- identification, treatment and prevention! Often confused with fruit flies, fungus gnats are small, flying insects about the same size as their almost equally annoying cousins, that most people who live with houseplants have had to deal with at one time or another. Because adult fungus gnats are attracted to light, you might first notice these pests flying near your windows, making windows a great spot to place your yellow sticky traps. But we’ll get to traps later. First, let’s get into the gnats themselves! Fungus gnats develop through four stages; egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The lifespan of a fungus gnat is not very impressive, as the adults only live from about one to two weeks, and complete a full life cycle, including the egg and larvae stages, in about 18-30 days. However, their ability to reproduce at an astonishing speed, approximately 200 eggs a day, is where the real problems lies. While we can all agree that adult fungus gnats are an absolute nuisance, they are mostly harmless, and the larvae are the ones you actually need to worry about. Why? Well, fungus gnat larvae live in the topsoil of the plants, and primarily feed on fungi, hence the name, and organic matter in the soil. But since they also like to chew on the roots of the plants, they can stunt the growth of your plants, especially young and vulnerable ones.So if you were wondering why your plant suddenly stopped growing, slowed down, or started producing smaller or not fully formed leaves, it might actually be related to those annoying little flies buzzing around your plants and light sources! As with all plant pests and plant problems, there are a lot of tips and tricks out there on how to deal with fungus gnats. Some suggest preventing the flies from laying eggs by sprinkling cinnamon or sand on top of the soil, which in theory could prevent them from reproducing.Temperature also plays a big part when it comes to the ideal living conditions of fungus gnats, as they seem to really thrive at about 21-24c, which is unfortunately a very common temperature in most homes!Various tips and tricks aside, once you recognize that there is a problem with gnats in your home, we believe the most effective way to get rid of them, is by fighting them with either beneficial bugs, or a bacteria in the form of pill. Don’t be discouraged by the the words ‘bugs’ or ‘bacteria’, both options are 100% natural, and actually quite simple. Allow us to explain! Nematodes are predatory bugs, basically microscopic worm like creatures that will attack and feed off the larvae of other insects. Nematodes that are specifically sold to to fight fungus gnats and other pests, can be purchased online in pouches that you keep in the fridge until you’re ready to use them. You simply add them to water before watering your plants. The amount of water you need is determined by the amount of nematodes, and the amount of nematodes is determined by the number of plants you own, and you’ll need approximately 1 million nematodes for every 10 plants… don’t worry, like we said, they’re microscopic, so you won’t have a million visible worms in your home, more like a harmless looking powder that you add to your watering can! The bacterial solution is often referred to as Mosquito Bits in the US and the UK, and it is also known as ‘BTI’, which is short for Bacillus Thuringiensis  Israelensis. It is a naturally occurring bacteria found in soils, which contains spores that produce toxins that specifically target and only affect the larvae of the mosquito, the blackfly and, of course, our nemesis the fungus gnat!In Germany, you can find Bacillus thuringiensis sraelensis in pill form, making it by far one of the easiest solutions out there, as you just dissolve the pill in water according to the instructions, and then use that water to water your plants, and you don’t have to keep this solution refrigerated, or worry about an expiration date, as you do with nematodes. And while nematodes might have a slight advantage in some areas, the bacterial solution should kill all of the larvae just as well! While these two solutions are our main picks for fighting fungus gnats in your home, there are of course other methods of prevention to consider, including but not limited to: Letting your plants dry out between waterings. Fungus gnat larvae prefer wet, peaty substrates, as that type of soil is ideal for growing the fungus and cyanobacteria, that the gnats feed on. Investing in a carnivorous plant, such as a Pinguicula, commonly known as Butterworts, or a Drosera Capensis. The sticky, hairy leaves on carnivorous plants trap the gnats, and the plant then feeds on them. Using yellow sticky papers to capture the adult fungus gnats. This is important, because even though they don’t harm the plants directly, their offspring will, so we recommend using yellow sticky papers in combination with either nematodes or bacteria for optimal results! We hope you found some helpful tips for getting rid of those pesky gnats, and keeping your beloved plants happy and healthy!

by Plant Circle

Common pests: Thrips

Thrips. The word alone sends chills down the spine of any plant parent, an with good reason, because thrips are probably one of the worst pests you can find on your plants! They are hard to get rid of, and they can transmit viruses. And to make things worse, they can be difficult to identify! But fear not, we’ll teach you all about identification, treatment, and prevention! The symptoms of thrips are often confused with either over watering, due to yellow and brown spots on the leaves, or extrafloral nectaries, due to the tiny dots on the leaves. So how can you tell that you’re dealing with thrips and none of the above? The first signs of a pest infection presents itself when a new leaf on the plant doesn’t want to unfurl, the growth of the plant is stunted, tiny dots appear on the leaves, or yellow and brown spots start appearing, looking similar to those of an overwatered plant.As soon as you see any of the aforementioned symptoms, it’s time to inspect the undersides of the leaves closely and carefully for any signs of bugs. Thrips are tiny, slender bugs that are only few mm long, so they can be quite hard to detect! The thrips larvae is white, while adults are black in colour. They suck on plants, which causes plenty of damage in itself, however the worst part may be that they can transfer viruses from plant to plant. How do they do that?Not only do adult thrips have wings and are able to fly, but the fact that most people keep their plants standing close together, and often touching, makes it almost too easy for thrips to cross over to their next victim. So once you spot tiny, slender bugs, no wider than sewing needle, on the underside of the leaf, and those bugs move once you carefully poke them with a fingernail, you know you are dealing with thrips and it’s time to get to work, ASAP! First you’ll want to get rid of as many of them as possible. You can do that by either using a lint roller, as suggested by House Plant Journal, or by placing your plant in the shower and using the water pressure of the shower head to thoroughly clean the leaves. Thrips will not only always lay eggs, which you can’t really remove, but the adults will often hide in the unfurled leaves, or in the cataphyll, which in plant morphology means a reduced, small leaf. As you can imagine, those places are far more difficult to get to, and thats why your fight against trips unfortunately doesn’t end with a shower and a lint roller. To really get rid of thrips, we recommend that you follow the steps outlined below, and repeat them over the next four to six weeks. Now, to be quite frank, it is both easier and faster to get rid of the unwanted pests by using store bought pesticides. However, there are ways to do it at home in a much less invasive way, and we tend to prefers those, so if you do as well, read on! After you have carefully showered, or lint rolled, your plant, spray it with a mixture of Neem oil and castile soap, measuring about 1 tbsp of neem oil and 1 tbsp of castile soap to 1 liter of warm water. Read more about this mixture, and the benefits of using neem oil in this blog post! Apply your mixture to all parts of plants with a spray bottle, particularly focusing on the underside of the leaves. Neem oil has a rather distinct odour, so we suggest you open a window when you use it to immediately air the room! It could also be a good idea to apply the Neem spray while the plant is still in the bathroom, as the mixture will get the plant quite wet. Once the plant is sprayed, it’s time to put it in quarantine! The infected plant should be separated from other plants, ideally standing alone in a room with a window. At this time, you’ll need to check your other plants for pests too. Even if none of them have thrips at first glance, we strongly recommend spraying them too, or maybe even getting some beneficial bugs as a preventative measure against any pests still hanging around your home. Beneficial bugs for treatment of thrips include Amblyseius Californicus which also work well against spider mites, and Chrysoperla Carneo, also known as lacewings. Neem oil leaves a film on the leaves of the plant, so remember to rinse the leaves again a couple of weeks after the treatment, but avoid washing the leaves until you have already the introduced beneficial bugs. Neem oil can kill any insect by smothering or suffocating them, but pests will die from ingesting the treated leaves.The beneficial bugs, however, don’t eat leaves and are therefore not affected by Neem, but if you spray the plant after releasing the predators, you might smother them, so it’s important do do things in the right order! If you’d rather skip the predator bugs altogether, simply spray the plant with the Neem mixture on a weekly basis over the next four to six weeks. You can, of course, also buy a natural pesticide based on Neem oil instead of mixing one yourself, and additionally, you can buy Neem seeds and mix them into your plants potting mix, or add them to your water while watering. Your biggest takeaway from this should be the importance of repeating treatment for several weeks, while isolating the infected plant to make sure the bugs don’t spread to other plants. If you do this, you have a good chance of getting rid of the unwanted squatters on your plants! Bonus tip: if you’re lucky enough to have a balcony, we also recommend planting a variety of flowers on your balcony, in order to attract beneficial insects that are natural predators to thrips. Some good predators include pirate bugs, lacewings, and ladybugs. And last but not least, sticky traps can be helpful in capturing adult specimens. Good luck and may your plants be ever free of pests!

by Plant Circle

Extrafloral nectaries

Have you ever wondered what those small sticky drops on the back of your Philodendron’s leaves are? If so, you’re not the only one! The phenomenon we’re talking about is often mistaken for bug damage or even a disease in the plant, and although it is bug related in nature, it is however not a sign of damage to the plant, but something called extrafloral nectaries.Extrafloral nectaries are, as the name suggests, nectar; a sugar-rich liquid which is produced by the plant in order to develop a symbiotic relationship with ants in the wild.    In the wild, ants build nests amongst the plants roots, which help hold the nest together. The Philodendron, in turn, obtain nutrients from the nest, and the aggressive nature of the ants serve to protect the plant from other insects, such as caterpillars, that would otherwise eat the plant. Talk about friends with benefits!   Philodendrons begin in the still young, not completely expanded, organs, and extend to the leaves of the second or third node from the base and it stop as the leaf hardens off, and then often fade away.  Extrafloral nectaries appear in a wide range of size among the studied species, but rarely have a diameter above 1mm. Extrafloral nectaries are most often found on the leaves and petioles of the plant, and although they can be quite small and discrete, you can spot them by their different coloured border, usually yellow, black, purple or green, or wine-colored, which add an extra pop of color to the plant! In some cases you can observe an excessive production of nectar which can leave the surface of the plant covered with it. Nectar droplets can leave a yellow spot on the leaf, which does not look attractive, nevertheless it’s harmless and should not be confused with pests. Extrafloral nectaries are not harmful to the plant and represent a natural part of the plants life.   Fun fact: the drops actually have a sweet taste, and are edible on some plants. But please check if yours is one of them before trying!Extrafloral nectaries are only found on Philodendron, Alocasia, and Culcasia among Aracae family.

by Plant Circle

Introducing: Huperzia

An intro to the mysterious and controversial Huperzias, and Oliver’s top tips on how to care for them! If you’re trying to claim the title of the most plant obsessed person you know, nothing beats getting involved with the hot topic that is the Lycopodiaceae family! Even that simple sentence could stir up some serious drama in the taxonomy world, as this family has been highly contentious when it comes to classifications. Most commonly known as Clubmoss, these plants are ironically not moss at all, and in fact have a striking resemblance to fir trees, so some people also call them Ground Pines. We could go on and on covering the intrigue and drama surrounding the more than 400 species in this family, but since this is merely an introduction, we have decided to let you geek out and do some digging yourself… you have to earn the label ‘plant obsessed’ after all! But what we will do is give you the inside scoop on one genus of this family: the Huperzia. Huperzia has many of the same characteristics of other species of Lycopodiaceae: a fir tree-like leaf shape, dichotomous stem branching, and flowers/spores, which are called strobili. Most specimens are found in alpine regions with temperate environments, meaning they thrive in quite a unique ecosystem, that is rarely found in your average apartment! These environments often experience heavy fog, rain, and mist, and this fact is important to consider when trying to grow your Huperzia indoors. High humidity is important, as well as constant moisture in the substrate, which should be representative of those same alpine regions. These environmental needs obviously makes caring for a Huperzia a more difficult task than with other houseplants, so how exactly are you supposed to replicate the natural environment of sub-tropical alpine Asia in your own bedroom? Well, the answer is quite simple, but it does involve a certain level of dedication to the cause! Firstly, research! Understanding this plant is an important part of being able to care for it. Your research will probably lead you down a trail of confusing information, but understanding the mystery of these plants will help you understand the importance of their care. However, if you can’t be bothered spending your free time dredging through the difficult to find, and often conflicting, information about a plant family that has dozens of different names, then just skip it, and listen here: Water your Huperzia regularly. And by regularly we’re actually talking multiple times per week, and in the peak of summer it could even be daily. Ideally you want to make sure there is always moisture in the substrate. The Huperzia should be planted in a coco-chunk-like substrate which doesn’t hold water as well as a soil mix. Learning to feel the subtle weight difference between a watered and unwatered plant is of the utmost importance. Medium to high humidity will protect delicate Huperzia leaves from browning, and seeing as you are going to be watering the plant so regularly, watering the entire plant in the shower would be a great way to keep the leaves from drying out. Additionally, a humidifier, or grouping your Huperzia with other plants, can be helpful. Keep your Huperzia in a bright, well lit area with exposure to a few hours of morning sun, if possible. Midday and afternoon sun will burn your Huperzia dreams to dust, but a little morning sun will give you and your beloved Huperzia some time to relax and daydream about being 1/10th of the way up a beautiful Himalayan Mountain from the comfort of your inner-city dwelling! So, now that you’ve followed these care tips, your Huperzia is lush, and has branched several times, an indicator of age, and has begun to develop spores. At this point you’re probably thinking ‘’wow, lucky me, new plant babies!’… well, think again, budding Huperzia heads! Germination of spores takes between three and eight years, and if you are thinking about propagation, well, that’s just as difficult. In conclusion, the Huperzia is a true plant baby in an almost literal sense, meaning it’s all yours, and you will have trouble sharing it with other plant parents. So instead we recommend that you just cherish it, get to know it, love it, and it will love you back!

by Plant Circle

Plant Care: Neem Oil

Plant people always talk about neem oil as the holy grail of plant care, and they’re not entirely wrong! Here’s how you use this natural product to keep your plants pest free. What is neem? Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Neem tree, or Azadirachta Indica. It’s been widely used in agriculture and horticulture as a biopesticide and a fungicide, as well as in Indian traditional Ayurvedic medicine, for centuries, and due to its many health benefits, components of it can also be found in anything from cosmetics, to soaps, toothpaste, and pet shampoos. How does it work on plants? Neem oil acts as a repellent, and therefore reduces the number of insects feeding on your plants. It also affects the hormonal system of bugs, which leads to lower reproduction rates. In addition to that, it can also kill insects by smothering and suffocating them when sprayed on the leaves.Neem oil is not toxic for humans, however if ingested it could cause severe gastrointestinal inflammation and irritation like stomach cramps or diarrhea. How to apply it? You can buy plenty of ready made pest control products that contain neem oil, but if you want to make your own, here’s how to do it! To make a basic neem oil spray, dissolve 1 tbsp of neem oil and 1 tbsp of castile soap, in 1l of warm water, and mix thoroughly. If castile soap is not available, an organic dish soap will suffice. If you’re making a pesticide you can also add a few drops of peppermint oil to your blend. If you’re making fungicide, omit soap and peppermint. Apply your neem oil mix on all parts of the plant using a spray bottle, while shaking the bottle regularly to keep the solution mixed, and paying extra attention to the undersides of the leaves where pests such love to hide. If you’re dealing with a pest infestation such as thrips, and are also using beneficial bugs, hold off on spraying for a few weeks, as you could accidentally suffocate your little helpers. Which pests does it kill? Which doesn’t it? Neem oil has proven efficient against most regularly occurring pests, including spider mites, thrips, aphids, scale, mealybugs, and even slugs. Mix, treat, repeat. The most important thing when using neem oil to fight pests is repetition. You must apply the mixture on plants thoroughly for at least 4 weeks, but ideally for 6 weeks, and you’ll see the best results if you spray your infested plants once or twice a week.It’s important to note that the active components of neem oil begin to break down after a couple of hours, which can result in a less efficient solution, so we recommend making a fresh batch before each treatment. You can also use neem spray as a preventative measure against pests if you’ve previously had an infestation, and want to make sure it doesn’t return!

by Plant Circle

Plant Circle at Home: Pietro

For our second installment of the Plant Circle at Home series, we’re visiting Pietro Zambello, friend of Plant Circle and collector of rare plants, Begonias in particular.Ready to feel like maybe you don’t have that many plants after all? Then read on! Hi Pietro and welcome to Plant Circle at Home! Tell us when you started collecting plants and why? I started collecting Begonia maybe two years ago, after a long time keeping and breeding frogs. I enjoy a good hunt, and I’m a collector at heart in the most victorian way imaginable, and somehow jungle plants and Begonia in particular caught my attention. I can’t quite explain why it had to be Begonias, I have struggled the same way to explain how I ever ended up with frogs! I did have phases in between, though, with corals, English roses, and South American miniature orchids, but Begonias just tick all the right boxes in my head! There’s something about the leaf colors and shape, and logic about these plants that’s just perfect.I guess a massive plus was iridescence, which I have always been attracted to, so I decided to focus on South East Asian non-tuberous species. How many plants approximately are there in your collection?Gosh, if you count all the propagation trays and mother plants, possibly a couple thousands?  What’s your favorite species and why?I think Begonia Rockii. As I mentioned, iridescence is something I have been attracted to ever since stumbling across a 19th century text on bioluminescence in European forests. After many ridiculous thoughts regarding glowing plants and luciferase, I settled for the next best thing; iridescence!Begonia Rockii came into my collection only recently, and it’s a large species with fleshy hand-sized leaves that are as close as it gets to a mirror.  “I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments”-Pietro Zambello What’s the easiest plant in your collection?My garden Begonia! I’m actually obsessed with Begonia Grandis and hybrids, with my all time favorite being Begonia Torsa.Massive leaves, slightly iridescent and indestructible. Spends winter as a tuber in my fridge. You can’t ask for more! What’s your most difficult plant?I don’t believe in difficult plants, only in wrong environments. If a plant is being is difficult, it’s because it’s a non established plant, like a recent import. My imported plants usually needs weeks to pick up as Begonias ship awfully, and you need to bring back the homeostatic level over a long period of time, crowned by leaf losses and stem rot, repotting and moving through boxes with decrescent humidity levels. In most cases you end up with only a 2 square cm leaf wedge rooting! What’s the best piece of advice you ever got in regards to growing plants that you wish you had known sooner? Don’t bother them! Don’t overthink, over measure, try to figure out soils, and come up with new remedies. My grandma was growing incredible plants basically in the dark with zero knowledge, and they’d make some instagram scientist from today cringe. I’m learning this myself; that less is more. That maybe if instead of changing the growth medium every four days, I could just let the plant figure it out, and we’d both be happier.  How long do you spend tending to your plants on a daily/weekly basis?I think about plants, like, all the time! It’s my safe space.I took my whole collection to work, so I can take a lot of little breaks during the day. Usually I’ll get to the plant room at the end of my day for a few hours, where I mostly repot or propagate. What’s the most valuable plant in your collection for you? (Not based on the market value)My blue Sonerilas. It was a gift I received from a friend after a night in Sumatra. I was there with my brother, and we had to take three flights from Borneo to reach central Sumatra, and ended up staying there only one night at my friends farm in the mountains, which we reached after dark, and after hours of travel by car. There I was shown these ridiculous plants, and many more, that are just blue and shine at the slightest shimmer. It was very overwhelming and surreal. None of these plants ever managed to leave Sumatra, as they ship terribly. I took home a 2 cm sprout and it’s a crazy feeling to have a plant that, besides not being described, you can’t even find and online record of! It was a process to figure it out, and I’m so happy I have many of them. I think I’m low key trying to recreate that night over and over. I was very happy. What do you see in plants that you think other people don’t and wish they did?Poetry What do plants bring to your life?Mostly a sense of control. I think about my plants every night before I go to sleep, and rearrange them in my head. I guess that’s what they bring to anybody? You feel in charge, without the pressure of feelings, as a plant is not in pain, and even if it’s is undernourished, it won’t feel hunger like for example a dog would. And then of course the positive feedback you get from seeing them grow, and the tiny moment where you think you cracked the code of life because you see a new leaf! And the panic three days later when it starts melting!

by Plant Circle

Plant Profile: Begonia

With a dazzling number of over 1800 species, and at least as many hybrids, Begonias are such a diverse plant family that it’s nearly impossible to not have at least one species you like! In this post we get really into all things Begonia, particularly how to care for them! Everyone probably knows the tuberous garden Begonias that bloom with huge flowers in summer, and the rich blooming Begonia Semperflorens types that adds pops of color to gardens and balconies long into autumn.But most Begonia species and hybrids aren’t grown or known for their impressive flowers, but rather the their leaves, which are the main points of interest when it comes to this plant! The wide variety of different, leaf colors, forms, patterns, and sizes, from tiny plants growing just 5 to 10 cm tall, to giants that can reach a few meters in height, prove that there really is a Begonia for everyone’s taste. The Begonia family is so widely spread all over the world that they have adapted to all kinds of different climates. But before you buy a rare Begonia, it is still important to do a bit of research about the conditions of their natural habitat. Do you have to give the plant wet soil, high humidity conditions and shade, for example in a terrarium, or is it better to keep your particular plant on the dry side with a lot of light? Although they have different needs, all Begonias are often quite good at adapting to new living conditions. The existing leaves can get damaged by a change in environment, but new developing leaves often won’t be affected at all. So don’t worry too much and feel free to experiment!In general most Begonias like their soil on the dry side between two waterings and don’t require a lot of fertilizer. Most of them dislike strong sunlight in the afternoon, and prefer well draining soil on the slightly acidic side.If you see your Begonia declining during winter, it’s usually due to a lack of light, and/or too much water. If you aren’t able to give your plant the extra light it requires in winter, try to find a spot where the average temperature is lower, for example in the bedroom, and dial back on watering significantly. Some Begonias can even overwinter at temperatures just above freezing point, for example Begonia Luxurians (Palm leaf begonia), as long as they are kept quite dry. Main pests and diseases are that can affect your Begonias are aphids and powdery mildew. The mildew often can be avoided by relatively harmless preventive treatments with products containing sulphur, and an aphid infestation can be taken care of with regular neem oil treatments. 7 quick Begonia tips from collector of rare Begonias Pietro Zambello: 1. Perlite is your best friend when working with South East Asian species, and try adding a bit of Akadama and soft limestone to your mix. Cane Begonias can take a heavier humus soil, mixed with Perlite, and you want it quite rich to sustain the growth. The Rhizomatous Begonias, on the other hand, like a more drained and mineral rich environment.2. Let them dry between watering,  and don’t water too much in general, with the possible exception of certain Chinese species, such as Emeiensis, that actually like to sit in a bit of water.3. Work clean, using clean blades, osmotic water, and disinfecting your pots and boxes. 4. Let them be, and don’t throw them away until they’re completely gone. You’d be surprised at how little a Begonia needs to pop back! Use sphagnum as a last resort.5. Leaf color will tell you when it’s time to feed, and leaf melting is your Begonia practically screaming that it’s overdue for a feeding!6. Offer them a lot of light, but no direct sun.7. Tuberous Begonias are great for low light, North facing balconies. Begonia Grandis are absolutely incredible, and besides having the advantage of being very hardy, they often develop strong iridescence as well. With Begonias becoming more and more popular these days, we expect even more new species being introduced in the coming years, so don’t forget to check our webshop on a regular basis! A special thanks to Begonia expert and rare plant grower Wilko Hofstede for sharing his Begonia knowledge for this post!

by Plant Circle

Plant care: Hard water

What hard water really is, how you identify it, and how it affects your plants! Depending on where in the world you are, you’ll have a different quality of tap water, but for the purpose of this blog post, we will be talking about the quality of tap water here in Berlin! And as you may know, the tap water in Berlin has quite a reputation, and unfortunately it’s well deserved! For those of you who don’t know, Berlin’s tap water is notoriously hard… but what does that even mean? Let’s take a closer looks at what the term ‘hard water’ really means in practice for both you and your plants! What is hard water? By definition, this type of water contains an appreciable quantity of dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium, and the easiest way to find out whether your tap water is too hard for your plants, is by observing your plants, specifically the top layer of the soil. Calcium residue is often clearly visible on the top of the potting mix in your potted plants in form of white residue. Another easy, yet slightly more scientific, way of determining the hardness of your water is to measure the pH value of the water using measuring strips. Anything above 8.5 pH value is considered hard. So let’s say that you’ve measured the pH of your water, and you’ve found out that it is indeed above 8.5… how does that actually affect you and your plants? Well, first of all, hard water does not possess any health risks to humans. At worst, you might notice a slightly bitter taste, and it can definitely dry out your skin and hair, as Berliners know well! The bitter taste can impact the flavour of your tea or coffee, and we’re sure we don’t have to mention what the effects of dry skin are! Luckily, both can be remedied quite easily by installing a water filter on your shower and/or on your sink.Here you can easily see the difference between distilled water and hard, Berlin water on a pH strip. Number one is distilled water from a dehumidifier, number two is from a Brita filter, and the third is your standard Berlin tap water! Now, it’s not that we don’t care about the taste of your tea of the lustrousness of your locks, but let’s get back to what having this type of water means to your plants! In general, there isn’t a single plant that actually likes hard water, however some tolerate it better than others. But for the sake of your plants, let’s choose to focus on the plants that don’t tolerate it well, and how you can actually tell just by looking at them! As mentioned earlier in the post, the first thing you’ll see is a calcium carbonate and salt build up on the top layer of your potting mix, which suggests that your tap water is too hard. This alone is problematic, as all of that salt and calcium will start building up around the roots too, and will eventually start to repel water. Doesn’t sound good, does it? So how do you fix that? You start by removing the top layer of the soil, or completely changing the potting mix, and switching to filtered, distilled, osmosis, or rainwater. You can also try to flush it out by giving your plant a shower. This of course works best if your shower has a filter installed on it already! Another common sign that your water is too hard on your plants are brown, crispy, burnt edges of their leaves. This happens very often to plants from the family Marantaceae, like Maranta and Calathea, with the latter being the more sensitive to hard water. Unfortunately a popular portable water filter, like Brita, won’t be enough in this case… these absolute divas will only truly thrive if you water them with distilled or osmosis water! Another group of plants that will suffer terribly when being watered with water that’s too are carnivorous plants. These guys are simply unable to produce the juice they use to trap insects when the water is too hard, which results in them being unable to get their nutrients to survive. Under no circumstances do you want to water them with anything other than distilled water! Besides the aforementioned species, the health of any plant can suffer the consequences of being watered with hard water. If you spot burnt edges or calcium buildup, you’ll know it’s either the result of the water in your home being too hard, or a lack of sufficient humidity in the room, and you can take immediate steps to remedy the situation. With this knowledge, growing happy Calatheas or carnivorous plants shouldn’t be an issue anymore!

by Plant Circle

Plant profile: Anthurium

In this introduction to this incredibly popular houseplant, we asked Plant Circle team member, and avid plant collector, Sarah, to give us her best Anthurium care tips, so get yourself a coffee, get comfy in your favorite chair, and prepare to have some knowledge dropped in your lap! Anthuriums are among the most stunningly beautiful foliage plants the world has to offer, if you ask us! Who can resist their unreal veins, or their giant velvet, glossy, or corrugated leaves? We definitely can’t! While many people collect and grow them perfectly fine as houseplants, it needs to be noted that these are first and foremost jungle plants, that need some level of special care in order to thrive. But don’t worry, we got your back! You will find all the information you need to grow your own happy and healthy Anthuriums in this post. But first, a little background information about this fascinating plant! Anthuriums are actually the biggest genus in the Aroid family, encompassing about a thousand species of plants. They are found throughout southern Mexico, Central America, and much of South America, with a few species found in the Caribbean. Aroid experts expect that there are hundreds more Anthurium species out there, that have not yet been located and described in the rain forests of many South American countries, Ecuador and Colombia in particular. The vast majority of the rarest and most beautiful forms of Anthuriums are located on the western slopes of the Andes Mountains. Each year, Aroid specialists like Dr. Tom Croat of the Missouri Botanical Garden, who’s considered one of the world’s leading experts on this Aroid genus, trek deep into the rainforest, with the assistance of students and researchers, in order to locate, photograph, collect, and describe new species. He is also the person responsible for finding many of the species that the plant community are obsessing over these days, so if you have a popular Anthurium in your collection, you probably have Dr. Croat to thank for it! The genus Anthurium is now found in South Asian countries as well, but only because humans cultivated them in the region. Ok, so now that we know a bit more about where Anthuriums come from, let’s get into how to best care for them! Substrates. There are epiphytic, hemiepiphytic, and terrestrial Anthuriums, which tend to favour the kind of growing media that best reflect their habitat in nature. Some Anthuriums are flexible in terms of environments and can be found in both terrestrial and epiphytic conditions. One notable example for this is the popular Anthurium Crystallinum.Most anthuriums are epiphytes, native to the canopies of tropical rainforests. They use their roots to anchor themselves on trees, then gather water and nutrients from the surrounding environment, and not by parasitizing the tree. Epiphytic Anthuriums grow on trees and attach their roots to the bark, meaning they grow without the involvement of any soil. This is why, when kept in a pot, they will love a very airy mix, containing around 50% bark, 30% perlite and 20% substrate. And go ahead and add some charcoal for its antibacterial and antifungal properties! The only reason why it’s beneficial to add some substrate to the mix, is because it is moisture-retentive, and therefore saves you the hassle of having to water your plant everyday! Examples of Epiphytic Anthuriums include Anthurium Clarinervium, Anthurium Veitchii (King Anthurium), Anthurium Plowmanii, and Anthurium Villenaorum. Hemiepiphytic Anthuriums root in the ground, and then attach themselves to another plant, often a tree, to climb upwards. Since they start out in the ground, they fare better in mixes containing more soil compared to epiphytes. We recommend a mix of 40% bark, 30% perlite and 30% substrate with added charcoal. These plants might require a deeper pot, or a pole to hold on to as they start climbing. Examples of Hemiepiphytic Anthuriums include Anthurium Warocqueanum, Anthurium Marmoratum, and Anthurium Metallicum. Terrestrial Anthuriums grow on the ground of the rainforest, and because of that they can tolerate a mix that’s a little less airy. We recommend 1/3 bark, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 substrate. They will also love a top layer of live moss that covers their roots and stem! Examples of Terrestrial Anthuriums include Anthurium Magnificum, Anthurium Dressleri, Anthurium Besseae, Anthurium Papilillaminum, and Anthurium Queremalense, as well as almost all pebbled-leaf Anthuriums, such as Anthurium Luxurians, Anthurium Radicans, Anthurium Corrugatum, and Anthurium Clidemioides. Most Anthuriums also do exceptionally well in semi-hydroponics, such as PON or Leca. Their thick roots love the airy mix, and they’re also not as threatened by the constant moisture as some plants with thinner roots might be. In cases of root rot, we recommend putting the remaining stump into spaghnum moss that you will need to keep moist, but not wet, at all times. Anthuriums love growing new roots into spag! You can also keep your Anthuriums in this moss in general, this is however only recommended for people who check on their plants daily, as it can dry out quite rapidly, and needs constant observation. Pro tip: Use living moss! Anthuriums really appreciate a layer of moss on top of the potting mix, and the layer should cover the top part of the stem, allowing the plant to grow its new roots into it. While spaghnum moss works fine, living moss, such as cushion moss, is more ideal since it forms a natural symbiosis with your Anthurium, giving it not only extra support, but also humidity from growing close to the leaves, as well as helping the plant retain some extra water in the soil. It also happens to be way prettier than spaghnum moss, making it look as if your Anthurium is growing on the forest floor. Adding layer of moss will also facilitate both root and leaf growth! Light. Anthuriums live in the undergrowth of the Southern American rainforests, so they are used to rather low light situations. Especially the ones with a purplish to red underside have adapted to their deeply shaded environments. Research has shown that the coloration on the leafs undersides is used to reflect a significant amounts of light that has already travelled through the upper leaf surface, back into the leaf where it is absorbed. This means that such plants have found a genius way to absorb light more effectively by reabsorption! However, it must be said that low light situations in a rainforest can still be brighter than the dark corners of our homes and, while some Anthuriums can definitely be kept there, they will by no means grow a lot or thrive. Giving them at least medium bright light will allow them to lead a happier life in your home! Precious, velvety Anthurium leaves get sunburned fast, so make sure to keep a good distance from grow lights, and acclimate them to the light if you had them in a low light setting before. Many collectors keep their Anthuriums in the now famous IKEA greenhouse cabinet with grow lights. In our experience, a 30 watt LED strip at the top, and another one in the middle of the cabinet, will be more than enough to make your Anthuriums grow in this particular setting in no time! Humidity. Humidity is where the debate forums really start to heat up when it comes to Anthuriums! Many people say that you can only grow Anthuriums in high humidity, so if you cannot provide them with 70%+ humidity, you shouldn’t even start collecting them. However, we are happy to inform you, that this is not entirely correct! While it is true that, technically, Anthuriums are not houseplants and cannot be grown as such, there are some varieties that will be okay growing in 40% humidity or lower!Anthuriums with glossy leaves are generally known to be more easy going when it comes to humidity. Anthurium Browniii, Plowmanii etc. will grow and thrive in your home without any fuss! Velvety Anthuriums are usually a little more demanding, but some species more so than others. Our beloved Anthurium Clarinervium, for instance, has become so commonly obtainable exactly because it makes a great houseplant. It will be fine with a humidity of 50%, which happens to be the humidity you should strive for in your home anyway, because it’s ideal for humans too!Other velvet-leaved Anthuriums will thrive in a humidity of ideally 65-80 %. Providing them with the humidity they need will ensure that you don’t get crisped up leaves or stunted growth. Still, a lot of our beautiful velvety favourites can be acclimated to live in lower humidity conditions. It is a time and care-intensive process, since you should only lower the humidity for them bit by bit in order to make them get used to the change, but they will eventually be able to live in 50% humidity environments. We have done this successfully with Anthurium Besseae and Anthurium Papilillaminum x hybrid! Some Anthuriums, however, will wilt within hours when they are not given the right humidity. These are, unfortunately, out of the question as regular houseplants and require a terrarium our greenhouse environment. Especially the pebbled-leaf, corrugated Anthuriums belong in this category. A prime example is the Anthurium Splendidum, one of the most beautiful species out there, which will only thrive in humidity over 85% and doesn’t tolerate anything less. One notable exception to this rule perhaps is the Anthurium Luxurians x Dressleri hybrid, which does very well in normal room conditions, when properly acclimated to them. A lot of people grow Anthuriums in greenhouses, grow tents or greenhouse cabinets to ensure high humidity. Yet, these plants are quite prone to fungus, so it is very important to give them proper air flow and clean their environment regularly. But we’ll get to that in the pest and diseases section! Fertilizing. Many Anthuriums will grow like crazy once they are fertilised regularly. Slow-release fertiliser that is mixed in with the soil can work wonders for them. However, your personal go-to fertiliser, which can also be liquid, will do the trick as well! In a greenhouse environment you can fertilise them all year round, because, just like in the rainforests they originate from, no seasonal differences exist in there! Repotting. Anthuriums love having space for their roots, so they will appreciate pots that are bigger than their root ball, and generally go up a size or two more than you would for your other houseplants. They will reward you for giving them more space by growing bigger leaves! Pests and diseases. Anthuriums are not as prone to pests as a lot of our other houseplants. However, if stressed, they can get attacked by spider mites, thrips, and other common houseplant pests. This is why it is important to leave your Anthuriums alone as much as possible, instead of constantly repotting and pruning them, or changing their environment. This will only make your plant weaker and more attractive to pests! The most common problems with Anthuriums are bacterial and fungal diseases, including bacterial blight, root rot, stem rot, and fungal or bacterial leaf spots. Bacteria and fungus thrive in the same high humidity conditions that your Anthuriums love as well, and this is why it is necessary to ensure good air circulation in your home or greenhouse environment, as moving air makes it way harder for fungus or bacteria to settle on leaves! If you see yellow spots on your Anthurium leaves, often with a small brown spot in the middle, or large parts of your leaf turn brown and crispy with a yellow halo around them, you likely have a bacterial or fungal problem. The first emergency step is to separate the affected plant from the rest of your plants, since bacteria and fungus can spread rapidly. We highly recommend cutting off all leaves that show signs of bacteria or fungus and disposing of them right away. We know this is a very daunting process and you might be left with nothing more than a stump if all leaves are affected. So, if you would like to try alternative methods first, we recommend a fungicide containing copper, or a systemic fungicide, which can stop the breakout on your plant. It will not remove the spots, but it will prevent the fungus from spreading.In case of a bacterial infection, what works for humans also works for your plants… believe it or not, we’re talking about mouthwash here! Spray some antiseptic mouthwash directly onto the affected area of the Anthurium, and let sit for five minutes. Then gently remove the remaining liquid from the leaf using a cloth. You can also spray your Anthuriums once a week to prevent any insect infestations, but be sure to only use the unflavored, or gold, version of the mouthwash, as the flavored versions have extra additives that could be harmful to your plants health. Propagation. Anthuriums can be propagated by stem cuttings and pollination, but it will take a whole other blog post to describe these processes, so stay tuned for a future post about that! We hope this post has inspired you to take on the exciting task of Anthurium plant parenthood, and whether you go full on with a greenhouse or a grow tent, or you just want to try putting one in your windowsill next to your more common house plants, you now have all the knowledge required to make your Anthurium of choice thrive!

by Plant Circle

Plant profile: Calathea

Calatheas are popular houseplants mainly because of their beautiful patterns, but the truth is, these are not simple houseplants, but real divas that need a lot of informed care! Want to become an expert? Read on! Calatheas are also called prayer plants, because they point their leaves upward at night like hands held together in prayer. Once the day begins, the leaves lower again, and some say they can hear a crackling noise during this process. These living sundials are exciting plants precisely because they are so alive and ever-changing! Calatheas belong to the Marantaceae family and are native to tropical areas of South America. In tropical regions they were used as roofing and for weaving baskets, which gave them their name. ‘Calathea’ comes from the Greek and literally means ‘basket’! Now, in order for you to have the best chance of success with this rather demanding species, we’ve gathered our best care tips and best practices below, and even included a list of Calatheas ranging from ‘beginner’ to ‘advanced’, so you can start off successfully and build your collection from there! Humidity. This type of plant, as we already mentioned, does need quite a lot of care, and especially a relatively high humidity to stay beautiful in our home, which is why some indoor gardeners do not dare caring for them.At least 60 percent in winter and 70 to 80 percent during the growing season from March to September are ideal conditions for Calathea. If the humidity in your home is too low, some Calatheas will quickly get brown and dry leaf margins. Also, the risk of them getting spider mites increases with lower humidity and, believe us, Calathea are unfortunately proper spider mite magnets!Note: Some Calatheas, especially those in the ‘beginner’ category of the list below, retain their beautiful leaves despite drier conditions. Watering. Calatheas like to be kept moist, but not wet – they don’t like to dry out too much. When they are thirsty, Calatheas show it with curled-up and droopy leaves. That’s when you should give them a good soak at the latest, and they will be back to their former stunning selves within a day.Important: Calatheas will not tolerate your regular old tap water! Highly sensitive to hard water, these babies require water that is room temperature and soft, so think distilled water, or at the very least well filtered! Soil. Despite their well earned diva reputation, prayer plants are actually not too picky when it comes to soil. They prefer a relatively well-draining, lightweight potting mix, but not as loose as you would use for your aroids, for example. A mixture of 50% coco coir, 30% perlite and 20% bark would work, or you can add about a quarter of sphagnum moss to three quarters of your go-to aroid mix to make it a bit more moisture retentive. Light. In their native countries, Calatheas grow as hanging and climbing plants, or ground covers in the rather shady undergrowth of the rainforest. That’s why Calatheas don’t like too much light at home either; their ideal conditions would be a warm, draught-free, semi-shaded location without direct sunlight.Depending on their pattern, however, certain Calatheas, such as the White Fusion, need more light.If left too bright, Calatheas like to lower their leaves steeply, and that’s the great thing about this plant species; they may be divas, but they clearly communicate their needs! Pests. As mentioned above, spider mites are a Calathea lover’s worst nightmare! These annoying bugs love prayer plants, so it is important to check the underside of their leaves very frequently for white spots that could prove to bespidermite eggs. There are a lot of ways to get rid of them. Our favourite is a solution of Neem oil, water and organic soap (with a teaspoon of pure alcohol if you want to go the extra mile) with which you can gently clean all your Calatheas leaves from both sides and its stems. Dormancy. Although Calatheas are not known to go dormant, but they do go through phases of growth and demise, which means that they will sometimes start to drop a majority of their leaves. It is a shocking process, but you must not give up on your Calathea then! In a lot of cases, it will come back with a lot of new leaves once it goes into its growth phase again. As long as the rhizomes in the soil are healthy, all you need is patience. Propagation. Calatheas cannot be propagated through cuttings, unfortunately. The only way to multiply a Calathea is by division, meaning you can simply divide the leaves of one plant including its rhizomes and roots into two and plant them up again. Easy as that! If you want to test your feel for prayer plants, start with the simpler varieties we’ve listed below, and if you follow these tips, you’ll be mastering the ‘advanced’ category in no time!Bonus info: Calatheas are not poisonous, which means they are pet friendly and not toxic to either cats or dogs, so this is the perfect genus for the patient plant and animal lover! Beginner: Musaica ‘Network’ Medaillon Vittata Concinna ‘Freddie’ Lancifolia   Easygoing siblings from the Marantaceae family: Ctenanthe burle-marxii Maranta Leuconeura Stromanthe Triostar Ctenanthe Setosa Stromanthe Magic Star Maranta Leuconeura ‘Lemon Lime’ Maranta Leuconeura var. kerchoveana ‘Variegata’   Advanced: Orbifolia Fasciata Beauty Star Flame Star Makoyana Rufibarba Roseopicta Helen Kennedy   Expert: Zebrina White Fusion Warscewiczii Ornata Sanderiana Crocata Special thanks to Plant Circle’s Sarah Remsky for her expertise! Follow her on instagram and, if you speak German, check out her book too.  

by Plant Circle

Plant profile: Scindapsus

In this plant profile we get into Scindapsus! Learn about where they’re from, how to care for them, and how to tell them apart! The Scindapsus is a popular genus, commonly known as ‘Satin Pothos’ or ‘Silver Pothos’, despite not actually being a Pothos at all! Not an Epipremnum, and not a Philodendron either, although sometimes mistaken for that too, Scindapsus belongs to the Araceae family, which is native to Southeast Asia, New Guinea, Queensland, and a few western Pacific islands.The most common Scindapsus species in cultivation today is the Scindapsus Pictus, followed by Scindapsus Treubii, which has only recently become more commonly available due to an increase in popularity. Scindapsus plants are highly decorative, climbing vines with thin stems and rooting at the nodes. These plants are some of the best selling plants that we carry here at Plant Circle, and with good reason; not only are they easy to care for, but they’re also absolutely beautiful, and most importantly, affordable… even the rare ones! Scindapsus Pictus was described in 1842 by German botanist Justus Carl Hasskarl. The name ‘Pictus’ comes from Greek and means ‘Painted’, and it’s not hard to understand why they decided to name it that! When young, this species is characterised by thick, velvety leaves, that are narrowly ovate with a heart-shaped, slightly asymmetric base. The leaves have a dark green color with silver-grey edges, and irregular spots of the same colour. In their mature form, the leaves become fully heart-shaped. Left image, clockwise from the top: Silver Princess, sp Sumatra, Silver Splash, Silver Splash, Silver PrincessRight image: Exotica, Silver Hero, Silver Hero, Silvery Ann, Argyraeus Some Scindapsus varieties have been on the market for a while, and are already in mass production, while others are more uncommon, or even rare. Scindapsus Treubii, for example, which is native to Jawa, Malaysia and Borneo, is a less common species of Scindapsus that has only entered the European market in very recent years. Scindapsus Treubii ‘Moonlight’ is the only species currently in commercial production in Europe, while ‘Dark Form’ is slowly making its way into European greenhouses.At the end of this post we have compiled a list, to the best of our abilities, of the different varieties of Scindapsus Pictus and Scindapsus Treubii, that we are familiar with, sorted by how common or rare they are. The list will be updated on regular basis as we become familiar with new varieties. But first, let’s get into some basic plant care for this surprisingly low maintenance genus! Growing tips. Although Scindapsus is a great plant to grow in hanging basket, and it’s tempting to just do that, if you want your plant to really achieve its full potential, and grow large sized leaves, try letting it climb something like a coco pole instead. The key here is providing the plant with a climbing surface made from organic matter. This allows the plant can grow its roots into the pole, and only then can the leaves can reach a truly impressive size! Humidity. Scindapsus prefer temperatures around 18-20 degrees, but when it comes to humidity, which is so often a problem for plant lovers in drier climates, this plant doesn’t require a lot of humidity, and can even thrive under more dry conditions, so you won’t need to invest in a humidifier because of this plant! Watering. Very basic; simply check with a finger and water the plant when top 3 cm of soil is dry, and let it dry out between waterings. This plant is very adept at communicating its needs, and its leaves will start to curl when it’s really thirsty! Soil. Scindapsus likes a porous, well draining substrate that is rich in organic substance, like our aroid potting mix! The faster growing species will need to be repotted frequently, but you can tell that it’s time when you see the roots growing out of the bottom of the pot. Light. The darker the Scindapsus, the less light it will need to survive, and while it prefers bright indirect sunlight, it can tolerate low light conditions. However, as with all plants, the less light it gets, the slower the growth will be! Note: Scindapsus Treubii tends to grow at a much slower rate than Scindapsus Pictus, who is considered an avid grower. Pests and problems. If you notice your Scindapsus growing very small leaves it usually means that it’s in need of something to climb, or that the light it’s receiving is insufficient. When you notice the edges of the leaves rolling inwards, it means the plant is dehydrated and needs water right away, or that it’s suffering from root rot, which also prevents it from drinking. Common pests include the usual suspects; thrips, fungus gnats, and spider mites.If you live with kids or pets, it’s important to remember that this plant is toxic if ingested! Propagation. These plants are easily propagated by stem cutting or air layering. Fun fact. Each variety of Scindapsus Pictus has the ability to suddenly produce a leaf that will look like another cultivar. We have come across ‘Silvery Ann’ producing ‘Argyraeus’ leaves, and ‘Silver Splash’ suddenly growing an ‘Exotica’ patterned leaf, so don’t say this genus isn’t full of surprises! Common types of Scindapsus Pictus (commercially produced): Scindapsus Pictus ‘Exotica’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Argyraeus’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Silvery Ann’ Uncommon types of Scindapsus Pictus: Scindapsus Pictus ‘Silver Hero/Platinum’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Silver Splash/Silver Cloud’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Silver Lady’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Silver Princess’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Jade Satin’ Rare types of Scindapsus Pictus: Scindapsus Pictus var ‘Argyraeus Dark Form’ Scindapsus Pictus ‘Jade Satin Variegated’ Common types of Scindapsus Treubii: Scindapsus Treubii ‘Moonlight’ Uncommon types of Scindapsus Treubii: Scindapsus Treubii ‘Dark Form’ Scindapsus Treubii Sp ‘Sumatra’ Rare types of Scindapsus Treubii: Scindapsus Treubii ‘Variegated’ Scindapsus Treubii ‘Mint’

by Plant Circle

Summer plant care

Summer is generally a great season for plants, as this is when all the growth happens. The days are longer, the sun is shining, humidity goes up… basically all the good things your plants have been lacking in the winter time! There are however a few things you should keep in mind, so let’s talk summer plant care! Holidays. So you have decided to leave the town for a number of days. Good for you! But what to do with your plants? Naturally you could ask your friends to take care of them, and that’s ideal as long as you make sure to brief them thoroughly on who to water, and how much as unfortunately, speaking from experience, most people like to water plants a little too much! You’ll probably get the best outcome if you group plants together based on their watering needs, and adding some sticky notes with instructions obviously won’t hurt either! We’ve also found it helpful to tell people for how many seconds they should pour the water, so that’s also worth a try. And remember that succulents like Hoya or cacti can be easily skipped if you are away for just a couple of weeks! If none of your friends are available to help you out, don’t panic! There’s a simple summer plant care watering system you can set up for your plants. First, we suggest moving your plants away from the windows, especially if you have southern exposure. The less light they get, the less water they’ll need. As mentioned before, succulents like Hoya, Cacti or Zamioculcas should survive your absence for 2-4 weeks just fine, so you don’t need to set up a watering system for them. But for your other plants, here’s what you’ll need: a few meters of cotton rope, and a couple of containers for water. Group your plants by watering needs, and depending on how much they drink, you’ll need place your water container above the plants on a shelf or stool for plants that drink a lot, and below the plants on the floor if they drink just a little. Cut the rope into pieces as long as the distance between the plant and the container, plus/minus 10cm. Water your plants first, as you normally would, and soak the strings of rope in the water. Then you wanna poke holes in your plant’s potting mix using a thick stick, think approximately 1 cm, push the rope down with your finger, and place the other end in the water container. Continue doing this for all plants, and you’ll be able to leave for you holiday with a clear conscience! Please note that we only recommend this summer plant care system if you’re going away for longer than one week. If your holiday is under 7 days you’ll only need to water your plants once before leaving, unless you have some super thirsty buddies, like maidenhair fern, in which case this system will also work!We do not advice you to leave your plants standing in a tub filled with water, or using glass balls, as we find them quite unhelpful. They tend to release all the water on the first day, which can result in over watering the plant, and you don’t want that! Pests. Another thing to watch out for in summer are pests. Thrips, spider mites, etc. can enter your apartment through the open windows and balconies, and attack your plants. No need to panic though, it’s just the circle of life, and having pests is an inevitable part of having plants! We have covered pests extensively here on the blog before, so if you’re wondering how to handle them, just scroll through the topics! Sun damage. Southern or Western sun exposure can be quite damaging for some plants, and leaving your shade loving plants in the afternoon sun can result in burnt foliage. It is however just an aesthetic problem, and it does not impact the health of the plant, but you might want to cut off the affected leaves. What does sun damage look like? You’ll usually see discoloured foliage in a very ‘compact’ way, like a big blotch or a stripe across the leaf. Another type of sun damage, or overexposure to sun, can express itself through discoloration of the entire plant. When the plant overall gets very light and faded in its color, it could very easily be due to too much light. After noticing it, you should move your plant to a spot without direct sun exposure immediately.A lot of our plants coloring depends on how low or high its light exposure is. Hoya’s, for example, will usually get pinker or redder due to sun stress, which a lot of people fight very aesthetically pleasing, and since it does not affect the plants health, there’s really no problem with giving them the extra exposure. Begonias or Syngoniums, on the other hand, will have darker and more intense coloring when grown in half shade and will lose that color when exposed to too much light. We will cover this topic more extensively in a future blog post, but this should give you an idea of what to look out for when it comes to the sun and how much is too much! Watering. Due to the hot summer temperatures you might notice that your plants are thirstier than usual.That’s absolutely normal, and you should adjust your watering routine according to plants needs in any season, so the best thing to do is observe your plants current needs, instead of rigidly sticking to a specific schedule all year round.We hope you read this before heading out on holiday, and that it gave you a chance to optimize your summer plant care routine!