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Why Mix Your Own Soil? A Guide to Our DIY Substrate Kits
 

Why Mix Your Own Soil? A Guide to Our DIY Substrate Kits

April 22, 2026

AroidCalatheaCarnivorous PlantsDIYHoyaPeat-FreePlant CareSoilSubstrates

There's a reason experienced plant collectors rarely reach for a generic bag of potting soil. The secret to truly thriving plants — lush, resilient, and long-lived — often starts beneath the surface. At Plant Circle, we've developed a range of DIY Soil & Substrate Kits so you can mix exactly the right medium for each plant, fresh and to order.

Here's why it matters, and a closer look at each kit in our range.

Why Mixing Your Own Substrate Makes a Difference

Pre-bagged potting soils are a compromise. They're formulated for the average plant, which means they're rarely ideal for any specific one. Worse, commercial mixes often sit in warehouses or on shelves for months — by the time they reach your plant, the organic matter has already begun to break down.

Here's what you gain by mixing fresh:

  • Fresher ingredients, better results. Bark, coco fibre, and perlite retain their structure and function far longer when stored dry and unmixed. Once combined with moisture, decomposition begins. Mixing just before potting means your substrate is at peak performance from day one.
  • No hidden decay. Pre-mixed soils can harbour mould spores, fungus gnats, and anaerobic bacteria — especially if they've been sitting in humid conditions. Dry, unmixed components are far less hospitable to these problems.
  • Mould prevention. Compacted, moisture-retentive commercial mixes are a common cause of surface mould and root rot. A well-structured, airy substrate drains freely and allows roots to breathe — dramatically reducing the risk.
  • Tailored to your plant. An Aroid needs something completely different from a Hoya, a Calathea, or a carnivorous plant. Our kits are formulated species-specifically, so you're not guessing.
  • Sustainability. All our kits are peat-free or peat-minimal, using renewable alternatives like cocopeat, coco fibre, and French bark — better for your plants and for the planet.

Our DIY Substrate Kits

1. DIY Aroid Soil Kit – Classic Blend with Universal Potting Soil

Best for: Monstera, Alocasia, Philodendron

DIY Aroid Soil Kit – Classic Blend with Universal Potting Soil

Our entry-level aroid mix is the perfect starting point for collectors who want a reliable, well-draining substrate without overcomplicating things. Built on a base of Universal Potting Soil (40%), it's enriched with French Bark (30%) for structure and aeration, Perlite (25%) for drainage, and a small dose of Activated Charcoal (5%) to keep the root zone clean and odour-free.

Mix ratio: 4 : 3 : 2.5 : ½ — simple, repeatable, and effective. Shelf life of up to 18 months unmixed.

2. DIY Peat-Free Aroid Soil Kit – Cocopeat Base for Monstera & Philodendron

Best for: Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium, Alocasia

DIY Peat-Free Aroid Soil Kit – Cocopeat Base for Monstera & Philodendron

A fully peat-free evolution of the classic aroid mix. Cocopeat (45%) replaces traditional peat as the moisture-retentive base — it holds water more evenly, resists compaction, and is a renewable coconut byproduct. French Bark (30%) and Perlite (20%) keep the mix chunky and airy, while Activated Charcoal (5%) rounds it out.

Mix ratio: 4 : 3 : 2 : ½. 100% biodegradable, pet-safe, and EU-shipped. Shelf life: 12 months.

3. DIY Peat-Free Hoya Substrate Kit – Cocopeat Base

Best for: Hoya, Dischidia and other epiphytes

DIY Peat-Free Hoya Substrate Kit – Cocopeat Base

Hoyas are epiphytes — in nature, their roots cling to bark and breathe freely. This kit reflects that: French Bark makes up 50% of the mix, with Cocopeat (25%) and Perlite (25%) providing just enough moisture retention without ever sitting wet. The result is a fast-draining, bark-forward substrate that mimics the Hoya's natural habitat.

Mix ratio: 2 : 1 : 1. Always use pots with drainage holes. Shelf life: 12 months.

4. DIY Calathea & Maranta Soil Mix – Moisture Balance Blend

Best for: Calathea, Maranta, Ctenanthe, Stromanthe

DIY Calathea & Maranta Soil Mix – Moisture Balance Blend

Calatheas are notoriously fussy — they want consistent moisture, but never soggy roots. This kit strikes that balance with Coco Fibre (~40%), Perlite (~25%), and Vermiculite (~25%) as the base, plus small handfuls of Activated Charcoal and Lava Rock for root health and micro-drainage. The result is a lightly moist, well-structured mix that keeps Calatheas happy without the drama.

Mix ratio: 1.5 : 1 : 1 plus small handfuls of charcoal and lava rock. Peat-free. Shelf life: 12 months.

5. DIY Peat-Free Carnivorous Plant Substrate Kit – Coco Coir Blend

Best for: Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Sarracenia, Drosera

DIY Peat-Free Carnivorous Plant Substrate Kit – Coco Coir Blend

Carnivorous plants are uniquely demanding: they need a nutrient-poor, acidic, moisture-retentive substrate — and absolutely no fertiliser. This kit delivers exactly that with Cocopeat (40%), Vermiculite (30%), Sphagnum Moss (20%), and Activated Charcoal (~10%). The sphagnum moss is key — it holds moisture like a sponge while maintaining an acidic pH that carnivorous plants thrive in.

Mix ratio: 2 : 1.5 : 1 : small handful. Always water with distilled or rainwater — tap water minerals can harm these plants. Shelf life: 12 months.

6. DIY Soil-Free Alocasia Mix – Ultra Airy Mineral Blend

Best for: Alocasia Frydek, Polly, Zebrina and other rot-prone varieties

DIY Soil-Free Alocasia Mix – Ultra Airy Mineral Blend

Alocasias are beautiful but unforgiving — root rot is their number one killer, especially in cooler European homes where soil stays wet for longer. This kit takes a radical approach: no soil at all. Built entirely from minerals, it combines Lava Rock/Pumice (40%) and Perlite (40%) for maximum aeration and drainage, with Activated Charcoal (10%) to keep roots clean and French Bark (10%) to prevent compaction.

The result is an oxygen-rich, ultra-fast-draining substrate that makes root rot virtually impossible. Ideal for experienced growers or anyone who's lost one too many Alocasias to soggy soil. Note: this mix requires more frequent watering and pairs well with higher ambient humidity.

Mix ratio: 4 : 4 : 1 : 1. Use pots with drainage holes. Mineral components store indefinitely — no degradation over time.

How to Get Started

Each kit comes with pre-measured components and a mixing guide, so there's no guesswork. Simply combine the ingredients in the stated ratio, pot up your plant, and water in gently. Store any leftover dry components separately in a cool, dry place — they'll keep for months.

Whether you're repotting a single Monstera or refreshing an entire collection, mixing your own substrate is one of the highest-impact changes you can make for your plants' long-term health. Fresher ingredients, better drainage, and a mix that's actually designed for your plant — it's the difference you'll see in the roots.

Browse our full range of DIY Substrate Kits →

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Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Beginner Plant Care 101: Light, Water, Soil & Signs Your Plant Needs Help

Becoming a new plant parent is exciting—but it can also feel overwhelming. Whether you're buying your first plant or just trying to keep one alive, we’re here to make it easier. At Plant Circle, we believe anyone can grow happy, healthy houseplants. Here's your Beginner Plant Care guide to the four basics: light, watering, soil & food, and spotting stress early. 1. Light: What Type Does My Plant Need? Plants need light to survive, but not all plants love the same kind. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different light levels and how to tell what you have in your home. 🌿 Types of Light: Low light: Areas with no direct sunlight. Rooms with north-facing windows or spots several feet away from a window. Medium light: Bright, indirect light. Near east-facing windows or a bit farther from a south-facing window. Bright direct light: Sunlight shines directly on the plant for several hours. Think sunny window sills, especially those facing south or west. 🪟 How to Tell What Light You Have: Stand near your plant and at eye level. If you look towards the light do you have to squint? Is it bright enough to read a book easily? If not, it’s probably low light. Is the sun actually hitting the floor or wall? That’s direct light. If it’s bright but you don’t see any harsh sunbeams, that’s medium or indirect light. 🌱 Common Plants for Each Light Level: Low light: Aglaonema, ZZ Plant, Snake Plant, Pothos – perfect easy plants to care for Medium (Indirect) light: Philodendron, Peperomia, Calathea Bright direct light: Succulents, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Cactus 🔍 Tip: Ask yourself, “How much light does my plant need?” and match it to your space before choosing your plant. 2. Watering: Not Too Much, Not Too Often One of the most common beginner mistakes is overwatering—but not in the way you might think. 💧 What Is Overwatering, Really? It’s not about how much water you give your plant. It’s about how frequently you do it. Most houseplants prefer to dry out a bit between waterings. Use your finger to test the top 2–5cm of soil. If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Always empty any excess water from the pot or saucer—no soggy roots! 🚱 Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing leaves Mushy stems Fungus gnats 🔄 Let the soil guide you, not the calendar! For More in depth on watering read our Blog Post: How to water your plants! 3. Spotting Plant Stress and Fixing It Even high quality rare house plants can show stress when they move into a new home. Your job? Keep an eye out for the signs and make small changes. 🔥 Too Much Light: Bleached or crispy leaves Move your plant further from the window or add a sheer curtain. 🌑 Not Enough Light: Leggy growth, small new leaves Try moving it to a brighter spot or rotating the plant weekly. 💦 Too Much Water: Yellow, soft leaves, root rot smell Let soil dry out more between watering. 🏜️ Not Enough Water: Drooping, dry, crispy leaves Water deeply and regularly check soil moisture. 🪳 Pests - Check out our pest guides! If other factors are good, yellowing leaves, sticky residue, webs, no lack of new growth can be indicators you have little buggies sucking up your plants strength. Look for tiny webs across the edge of leaves (spider mites) -especially with Alocasia Tiny Thrips will stunt your plant growth and new leaves will come out already yellowing. Confirm by seeing the tiny pale white devils on the underside of your leaves. 🧠 Observation is the best plant-care tool you have. 4. Soil & Food: What Your Plant Eats Matters 🌱 Soil: Why It’s Different at Home At the nursery, plants thrive in warm, humid greenhouses with perfect light. That’s why they can survive in dense, compact soil. In your home? Not so much. A chunky, well-draining soil mix is best. Use soil specific to your plant type (e.g. aroid mix for philodendron) Add perlite, bark, or pumice for better airflow Avoid compact garden soil in pots 🍽️ Plant Food: When and How to Feed Most houseplants benefit from feeding during spring and summer Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once a month In winter, most plants rest—skip the food 🌟 Pro Tip: Your philodendron will thrive in a chunky soil mix and light monthly feeding during active growth!

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Unlock the Magic of Monstera Adansonii: A Guide to Choosing the Perfect Variety for Your Home!

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Unlock the Magic of Monstera Adansonii: A Guide to Choosing the Perfect Variety for Your Home!

From the adorable Baby Adansonii to the stunning Mint variegation and towering XL, Swiss Cheese Plants are as diverse as they are charming. In this guide, we dive into the unique traits, growth habits, and care tips for each Monstera Adansonii variety offered at Plant Circle. Whether you're a new plant parent or a seasoned collector, you'll find the perfect leafy companion to suit your space and style. Plus, learn how to keep your Swiss Cheese Plant thriving in European climates with our expert care advice. 🌿

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Plant Circle guide for some beginner house plant questions!

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Plant Circle guide for some beginner house plant questions!

Mastering houseplant care starts with understanding the essentials—from naming confusion and pet-safe plant tips to why your cactus isn’t blooming. This ultimate guide brings together expert articles that answer your most common plant care questions. Whether you're navigating botanical names or troubleshooting fussy ferns, this roundup connects you to everything you need to grow happier, healthier plants.

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Why Do Calatheas Love to Die? (And What to Get Instead If You're Tired of the Drama)

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Why Do Calatheas Love to Die? (And What to Get Instead If You're Tired of the Drama)

Stop trying to make Calathea happen. It’s not going to happen. Let’s all take a moment of silence for the latest calathea you brought home with such hope in your heart… and found shriveled into a crispy relic of its former self two weeks later. You misted it. You spoke to it. You gave it filtered water collected under a full moon, and still—“my favorite thing to do is die,” whispered the calathea, as it dropped another leaf and gaslit you into thinking it was your fault.     Thanks to Reddit sage new_butterfly223, we can now confirm: calatheas know what they’re doing. They are dramatic. They are beautiful. And they are the most high-maintenance plant roommates you could ever invite into your home. Somehow, despite all this, every grocery store and Baumarkt in the country seems to have Calatheas for days—just sitting there like botanical sirens, luring you into yet another heartbreak. We all start out the same: enchanted by those gorgeous patterned leaves, ready to become a calathea parent. But soon you’re googling “why is my calathea sad” at 2am, surrounded by a graveyard of humidity trays and emotionally shattered fiddle leaf figs who are just happy someone else is the problem child now. Sound familiar? If you’re stressed about keeping your Calathea alive, you’re definitely not alone. These plants belong to the Marantaceae family (including Maranta and Stromanthe) and are notorious for being picky about light, water, and humidity levels. Signs Your Calathea Is Plotting Something Brown edges? Emotional manipulation. Curling leaves? Passive-aggressively asking for a raise in humidity. Yellowing? They read your aura and didn’t like it. Flourishing? Just kidding, it’s storing energy for a dramatic decline. Let’s be honest: we still love them. But sometimes, self-care means realizing calatheas are the plant version of a toxic situationship, and you deserve better. If you're brave enough to keep trying (respect!), we’ve got some tips that might actually help. Check out our Calathea care guide for advice on humidity, light, and keeping the drama to a minimum. Bonus tip: Calatheas are pet friendly! So if you’ve got curious cats or mischievous dogs, they’re in the clear. Aglaonemas, on the other hand—while much easier to keep alive—are unfortunately toxic to pets. Because of course the calm, low-maintenance one has a dark side. So... Instead of That One Calathea That Keeps Dying, Try This Aglaonema Instead: If you're ready to stop stressing over your Calathea and want a low-maintenance plant with a similar look, there’s hope. We’ve got some stunning Aglaonema varieties that offer bold foliage without the constant drama. Here’s your go-to guide for some easier alternatives to Calathea. Because Aglaonemas are the loyal best friend who texts back, doesn’t flake, and thrives even when you forget to water them for a week. Here are some perfect swaps: Calathea Drama Queen Chill Aglaonema Alternative Calathea Orbifolia Aglaonema ‘Silver Bay’ – same silvery elegance, none of the weekly meltdowns. Calathea Medallion Aglaonema ‘Pictum Tricolor’ – still flashy, but won’t demand filtered rainforest mist. Calathea Beauty Star Aglaonema ‘Pink Stripe’ – vibrant and unique, but emotionally balanced. Calathea White Fusion Aglaonema ‘Creta’ – variegation? Check. Attitude? Absolutely not. Calathea Makoyana Aglaonema ‘Stripes’ – same narrow leaves, but far less likely to give up on life. Final Thoughts To all the plant lovers out there mourning yet another lost calathea: you are not alone. They’re basically botanical performance artists, and you were just part of the show. So if you’re tired of googling “how to fix my dying Calathea,” it might be time to simplify your plant life. Whether you want to stick it out or switch to a lower-stress alternative, we’ve got you covered with plants that won’t break your heart—or your spirit. Ready for a plant that actually wants to live, maybe it’s time to break up with Calathea and swipe right on Aglaonema. No judgment—we’ve all been there. And if you do insist on trying “just one more calathea,” we’ll be here, misting and commiserating with you, one crispy leaf at a time. Want a plant that won't ghost you? Check out our Aglaonema collection and finally feel appreciated.

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Why the White Parts of Variegated Leaves Turn Brown (and How to Prevent It)

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Why the White Parts of Variegated Leaves Turn Brown (and How to Prevent It)

The white parts of variegated leaves turn brown because they lack chlorophyll, making them more delicate and prone to damage from too much light, inconsistent watering, low humidity, and temperature changes. While some browning is normal and unavoidable, you can slow it down by providing bright, indirect light, consistent watering, high humidity, and stable temperatures. Don’t stress—trim brown spots as needed and focus on overall plant health. Imperfections are part of the beauty of variegated plants! 🌿

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Top 10 Pink, Purple and Red Plants That Make Perfect Valentine’s Day Gifts

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Top 10 Pink, Purple and Red Plants That Make Perfect Valentine’s Day Gifts

Looking for a thoughtful and lasting Valentine’s Day gift? Skip the short-lived bouquet and give the gift of a stunning live plant! In this guide, we share Plant Circle’s top picks for pink, red, and purple-hued plants that radiate love and warmth. From the easy-care Syngonium ‘Neon Robusta’ to the elegant Philodendron Pink Princess, these plants are perfect for plant lovers of all skill levels. Discover why the Ceropegia Woodii Variegated (String of Hearts) is our #1 pick for the season! These sustainable, low-maintenance options are sure to bring joy long after Valentine’s Day has passed. Find your perfect plant gift today!

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Why Do Some Plants Have Two Names? Understanding Botanical and Common Names

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Why Do Some Plants Have Two Names? Understanding Botanical and Common Names

Have you ever noticed that some of your favorite plants go by more than one name? For instance, you may have seen the popular Alocasia Frydek, but it also goes by Alocasia micholitziana. This dual-naming system can be confusing for plant lovers, especially when trying to find reliable care information or discussing plants with others. Let's explore why plants often have two names and how this naming system helps (or sometimes complicates) our understanding of the green world. 1. The Botanical Name: A Global Standard The first name for a plant, like Alocasia micholitziana, is its botanical name. This name follows specific rules set by botanists to create a global standard. Here’s what makes botanical names so useful: Consistency Across Languages and Regions Botanical names are part of a standardized system called binomial nomenclature (meaning "two-name system") created by Carl Linnaeus in the 18th century. This system provides each plant with a unique name that’s recognized worldwide, regardless of language or local customs. For example, Alocasia micholitziana will be known by this name whether you’re in the United States, Japan, or Brazil, avoiding confusion caused by regional or language-based common names. Precision in Plant Classification Each botanical name has two parts: Genus (e.g., Alocasia): This is the plant’s larger family group, grouping together plants with similar characteristics. Species (e.g., micholitziana): This identifies the individual species within the genus, giving it a unique identity. In some cases, there may also be a varietal or subspecies name if a plant has naturally occurring variations. These classifications help scientists, botanists, and growers to discuss and study plants accurately and track subtle differences between similar species. 2. The Common Name: Plant Names in Everyday Language The second name you often hear for a plant, like "Frydek," is its common name. Common names are usually less formal and vary based on local culture, language, or even popular trends. Easy to Remember Common names are often catchier and easier to remember than botanical names, especially for casual plant enthusiasts. For instance, “Alocasia Frydek” might be easier to recall than Alocasia micholitziana, particularly when recommending the plant to a friend. Naming by Appearance or Origin Common names often come from distinctive characteristics, like shape, color, or origin. "Frydek," for example, refers to a specific variety of Alocasia micholitziana known for its velvety, dark green leaves and prominent white veins. Common names can evoke an image of the plant, making it easier to associate the name with its look. However, one plant might have several common names in different regions or languages, which can cause confusion. This is why botanical names remain important for precision, especially in scientific contexts. 3. Why It’s Important to Know Both Names For plant enthusiasts, knowing both the botanical and common names can be incredibly helpful: Finding Accurate Care Information: Sometimes, searching for care tips by common name alone can lead to confusion, as many plants share similar nicknames. If you search "Frydek," you might get mixed results about its care requirements. However, using its botanical name, Alocasia micholitziana, can help you find more precise care information specifically for this variety. Shopping for Plants: Knowing both names helps when buying plants online or at nurseries. For example, if a plant shop labels it as Alocasia micholitziana but you've only heard it called "Frydek," you might miss out on the plant you’re looking for—or accidentally buy a similar species instead. Avoiding Mix-ups with Similar Plants: Some plants have similar appearances but belong to entirely different species. For instance, the "Philodendron" and "Pothos" genera have plants with heart-shaped leaves that can be confused. Relying on botanical names can help you distinguish between look-alikes and ensure you’re purchasing or caring for the correct plant. 4. Why Some Botanical Names Change Over Time Sometimes, the botanical names of plants actually change! Advances in genetic research allow botanists to classify plants more accurately based on their DNA. Occasionally, a plant may be reassigned to a different genus or have its species name updated. For example, Sansevieria trifasciata (commonly known as "snake plant") was recently reclassified as part of the genus Dracaena. While these changes may feel like extra steps for plant enthusiasts, they’re part of the effort to keep our knowledge of plant species up to date and accurate. 5. Tips for Remembering and Using Plant Names To avoid confusion, here are a few simple tips for remembering and using plant names: Keep a Plant Journal: Write down both the botanical and common names of your plants. This way, you’ll have a quick reference if you need specific information. Label Your Plants: If you have a large collection, label your pots with both names. Not only is it helpful for care, but it’s also a great conversation starter with guests who are curious about your plants. Ask for Botanical Names When Shopping: When buying plants, ask nursery staff for the botanical name. Most plant sellers are happy to provide this information to help you find care information and avoid mix-ups. Use Plant ID Apps: Many plant identification apps, such as PictureThis or PlantSnap, offer both common and botanical names, which is useful when researching plants or expanding your collection. In Summary While it might seem confusing at first, having both botanical and common names for plants can be incredibly helpful. Botanical names ensure accuracy and global understanding, while common names provide familiarity and accessibility. Embracing both types of names can enrich your plant knowledge, help you care for your plants effectively, and connect you with other plant enthusiasts worldwide. So the next time you’re admiring your Alocasia Frydek (Alocasia micholitziana), you can appreciate both the history and the science behind its name! Happy planting! Read about some of our other answers to some beginner house plant question here.

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common-pests-mealybugs_optimized

Plant Circle Blog – by admin

Mealybugs on Houseplants: How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent These Fuzzy Little Nightmares

Mealybugs: The Cottony Menace Lurking on Your PlantsThink that fuzzy white patch is just harmless fluff? Think again. Mealybugs are sneaky sap-suckers that hide in plant crevices, draining the life out of your greenery and inviting mold and more pests to the party. In this guide, we’ll show you how to spot them, stop them, and prevent future infestations—because prevention is always easier than battling a mealybug army mid-attack.

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Growing Your Plants from Plugs

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Growing Your Plants from Plugs

Are you looking to expand your houseplant collection without breaking the bank? Starting your plants from plugs might be the perfect solution. In this blog, we’ll explore what plant plugs are and why they are a cost-effective and sustainable way to grow your favorite plants. From understanding the innovative tissue culture propagation method to providing a step-by-step guide on how to pot and care for your plugs, we’ve got you covered. We have a large collection of plant plugs for you to check out! What Exactly is a Plug? A plant plug is a seedling that was started and grown in an individual cell filled with potting soil in a laboratory. This method, known as tissue culture propagation, involves growing plants from a small piece of plant tissue in a sterile environment. Tissue culture ensures that each plug is a genetic clone of the parent plant, free from diseases and pests. This method is highly efficient and sustainable because it produces a large number of uniform plants in a short period, using minimal resources. By optimizing growth conditions in the lab, tissue culture reduces the need for chemical treatments and water, making it a cost-effective and environmentally friendly way to propagate plants. Plugs provide a cost-effective way to jump-start your houseplant collection. These well-developed young plants with strong root systems are ready for potting up. Step-by-Step: What to Do with Your Plugs When They Arrive Prepare a Plastic Nursery Pot: Select a small pot, preferably around 8 cm in diameter. Using a bigger pot will require more soil, which can retain excess moisture and potentially cause root rot. It’s better to start with a smaller pot and gradually pot up as the plant grows. Typically, when the roots begin to grow out of the holes at the bottom, it’s time to pot up. Prepare an Appropriate Potting Mix: Choosing the right potting mix is crucial for the healthy growth of your plant plugs. You can either purchase a potting mix specifically tailored for the type of plants you are growing or create your own blend. A pre-made potting mix ensures that your plants receive the optimal balance of nutrients, drainage, and aeration needed for robust growth. These mixes are formulated to meet the specific needs of different plant varieties, making it easier for you to provide the best growing conditions. If you prefer a more customised approach, you can mix your own potting soil. Start with a good-quality base such as peat moss or coco coir for moisture retention, and add perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage and aeration. Incorporate organic matter like compost or worm castings to enhance nutrient content. Depending on your plant’s specific requirements, you might also add ingredients like sand, charcoal or bark. We offer a large selection of potting mixes and soil improvers to help you create the perfect blend. With the right potting mix, your plant plugs will have a better chances to thrive and grow into healthy, mature plants. Base Mix 5L 12 € Shop now Planting the Plug: Carefully take the plug out of its packaging. You’ll notice that the root ball is often surrounded by a mesh or net. Gently remove this covering, being cautious not to damage the delicate roots. This step is crucial as it allows the roots to expand freely into the new soil. Start by adding a layer of soil to the bottom of your plastic nursery pot. This initial layer will help elevate the plug to the correct level and ensure good contact between the roots and the new soil. Place the plug in the center of the pot. Hold it steady and begin filling the pot with soil. As you add soil, make sure to cover all the roots and fill in any gaps around the plug. This helps stabilize the plant and promotes healthy root growth. Once the pot is filled, gently pat down the soil around the plug. This ensures that the seedling is firmly in place and that there are no air pockets, which can hinder root development. The goal is to make the seedling stable and secure in its new environment. Water and Fertilize: Water your plant with a light fertilizer, ensuring that you follow the recommended dilution rates on the package for optimal growth and health of your plant, and always remember to avoid over-fertilizing to prevent any potential damage. Place the pot in a well-lit spot, avoiding direct sunlight, to ensure that the plant receives enough light for photosynthesis without the risk of leaf burn. Alocasia Frydek Plug Shop now Now, it’s time to watch your plant grow! With the right care, your plugs will thrive and soon become beautiful additions to your home. If you don’t want to wait to see your plants grow, we recommend exploring our large and extra-large plant categories. These mature plants provide instant greenery and beauty, allowing you to enjoy the full aesthetic of a well-developed plant right away.

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Ferns: Are They Really So Hard to Grow?

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Ferns: Are They Really So Hard to Grow?

Have you ever found yourself grabbing a stunning silver blue fern or a bushy Boston fern at the store, only to put it back when you remember how many times you’ve accidentally killed your previous ferns? We’ve all been there. I can’t count on the fingers of both hands how many ferns I’ve brought home only to watch them wither away. However, after some trials and errors, I’ve figured out how to grow them successfully and even discovered which varieties are hardy and thrive on neglect. Here are my best tips and findings to help you care for your ferns. Watering You might have heard the famous advice: “Keep moist but not waterlogged.” But what does that really mean? Essentially, it means that when you touch the potting mix, it shouldn’t feel dry, but it also shouldn’t be muddy. Think of it as watering more often with small amounts of water rather than a lot of water once a week. Here are a few things to consider: Planter Type: Avoid terracotta pots as they absorb moisture and dry out the soil faster. Unless you enjoy daily plant care, opt for a plastic nursery pot placed inside a decorative planter. This setup helps maintain moisture levels. Drainage: Ensure your planter has proper drainage. If you overwater your fern, you’ll notice water sitting at the bottom of the planter. Ferns dislike “wet feet” (unlike some plants like Alocasia) and can develop root rot if left in standing water. Water Quality: Use distilled or filtered water, or even rainwater if possible. This helps avoid any issues with the chemicals present in tap water. Soil One crucial step for fern care is to repot your fern as soon as you bring it home. Most store-bought ferns are pot-bound, and upgrading their soil can make a big difference. Here’s how to handle it: Fern Potting Mix 5L Pre-Repotting Soak: Generously water the plant and let it soak to loosen the root ball, making repotting easier and ensuring that the roots are more pliable, reducing the risk of damage during the repotting process. Soil Choice: Since ferns like to stay moist, a good potting mix would be coco coir with perlite and some peat to lower pH. Coco coir is known to retain moisture for longer periods, making it an excellent choice for ferns. A quick Google search based on the specific fern you have will guide you to the best soil type. Light While ferns don’t like direct sunlight, they still need a good amount of light to thrive. Please don’t place your ferns in dark corners or windowless bathrooms. The more light they get (without direct sunlight), the better they’ll grow. Humidity If your bathroom happens to have a window, it will be a great spot for your fern as they love higher humidity. Otherwise, speaking from experience, I had no problems with ferns in my Berlin apartment with average humidity. Recommended Ferns for Beginners For those new to growing ferns, I recommend starting with these varieties: Bird’s Nest Fern: Hardy fern that doesn’t mind if you forget to water it occasionally. It’s broad, arching fronds can add a lush, tropical feel to any indoor space, making it an ideal houseplant for those looking to bring a touch of greenery into their home. This fern thrives in indirect light and can tolerate low-light conditions, making it perfect for rooms without much natural sunlight. Additionally, it can help purify the air, contributing to a healthier living environment. Just make sure to keep its soil slightly moist and avoid letting water sit in the crown, as this can cause rot. Crocodile Fern: Super easy to grow and possibly the hardest fern to kill—as long as you don’t overwater it! It tolerates drying out between waterings quite well. This unique fern, with its rugged, crocodile-like textured leaves, makes for an attractive indoor plant. Additionally, it thrives in indirect light and is exceptionally adaptable to various environments. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced gardener, the Crocodile Fern is a delightful addition to your plant collection due to its resilience and low-maintenance nature. Boston Fern: This guy is definitely next level, but if you repot it and keep it far away from touch with enough space around it in a well-lit spot, it will grow like crazy! Additionally, it’s important to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, as Boston Ferns thrive in high humidity. Regular misting and placing a humidifier nearby can also aid its growth. Don’t forget to feed it with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season to ensure it receives all the necessary nutrients. With just a bit of care and attention, you’ll have a lush, thriving fern that adds a touch of natural beauty to any space. Asparagus Fern: Probably my favorite! This one definitely prefers regular watering and doesn’t like to be dry, but in my experience, it won’t die quickly if you ever water it a day late. Its delicate, feathery foliage adds a touch of elegance to any space, and it’s relatively forgiving when it comes to lighting conditions. Although it thrives in bright, indirect light, it can tolerate lower light levels, making it a versatile choice for various rooms in your home. Growing it near humidifier will help maintain its lush appearance and prevent the leaves from drying out, which is particularly helpful if you live in a dry climate or during colder months when indoor heating can reduce humidity levels. By following these tips, you can turn your home into a fern-friendly haven. Happy growing!Monika Like what you read? Why not sign up for our newsletter and never miss a blog post? Our Instagram is also a great place for plant care tips. Have a request about topics we should cover? Email monika@plantcircle.co with your suggestions! Disclaimer: This blog post is written from a well-lit Berlin apartment; please keep that in mind. If you live in a different part of the world, growing ferns at home might be easier or harder. Read about some of our other answers to some beginner house plant question here.

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Roots of Success: Mastering the Art of Water Rooting Cuttings!

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Roots of Success: Mastering the Art of Water Rooting Cuttings!

As spring ushers in new life and vibrant greenery, many plant parents look forward to propagating their beloved plants through cuttings. Sharing these cuttings with friends is not only a great way to spread the joy of gardening but also allows us to multiply our plant collections without spending a fortune. One popular and relatively easy method of propagation is water rooting. In this blog post, we will explore the best practices for propagating plants through cuttings and successfully rooting them in water. Start with Clean and Disinfected Tools.Before embarking on your propagation journey, it’s essential to ensure that your tools are clean and ideally disinfected. Use sharp scissors or a knife to make clean cuts, as jagged or torn edges may hinder successful rooting. Allow the Cut to Heal Once you’ve taken a cutting, it’s crucial to let the wound heal before placing it in water. Freshly cut stems are prone to becoming mushy and rotting in water. Most plants require a few hours on the counter to heal the cut, while succulents or cacti may need a few days for the cut to callous over. Change the Water Regularly or Use Activated CharcoalTo prevent bacterial growth and maintain a healthy environment for rooting, remember to change the water in the container every few days. Alternatively, you can add a small amount of activated carbon pellets to the water, which helps keep it bacteria-free. Provide Light for Root DevelopmentChoose a glass container for your cuttings, allowing the roots to receive some light. Light exposure promotes photosynthesis, helping the cuttings develop stronger root systems. However, be mindful of excessive direct sunlight, as it can overheat the water and damage the delicate roots. Consider Rooting Hormone Although not always necessary, using a rooting hormone formulated for foliage application can boost the success rate of your water-rooted cuttings. Apply it according to the product instructions, as improper use can be counterproductive. Wait for a Strong Root Network Patience is key when propagating plants through cuttings. Wait until your cutting has developed a healthy network of roots before proceeding. Rushing the process could lead to transplant shock or the failure of the cutting to establish itself. Choose the Right Pot and Potting Mix When your cutting has developed sufficient roots, it’s time to transition it to soil. Select a small pot that provides stability for the cutting. Ensure that all the roots are covered with potting mix, but be cautious not to choose a pot that is too large, as excess soil can lead to overwatering and root rot. We have substrates (potting soils) for all types of plants. Provide Bright Indirect Light Place your newly potted cutting in an area with bright indirect light. This will allow the plant to photosynthesize and promote healthy growth. Avoid placing it in direct sunlight initially, as it may be too intense for the tender roots. Water and Fertilize with Care In the first few weeks, be mindful of watering your newly potted cutting. Overwatering can drown the young roots, while underwatering can lead to dehydration. Find the right balance and adjust your watering schedule based on the needs of the specific plant. Additionally, provide a balanced fertilizer to nourish the growing cutting but avoid over-fertilization, as it can cause root burn. Propagation through cuttings and water rooting is an exciting and rewarding way to expand your plant collection and share the joy of gardening with friends. By following these best practices, you can increase your chances of success and ensure the healthy establishment of your propagated plants. So, grab your disinfected tools, prepare your glass containers, and embark on a propagating adventure this spring. Happy propagating!

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Piper Plants: Crystal Secrets

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Piper Plants: Crystal Secrets

Piper plants, specifically Piper Crocatum and Piper Ornatum, are fascinating additions to any plant enthusiast’s collection. These South American natives are known for their unique characteristics and vibrant foliage. In this blog post, we’ll explore two key aspects of caring for Piper plants: understanding Piper Crocatum crystals and differentiating between Piper Crocatum and Piper Ornatum. Caring for Piper Plants: Piper Crocatum and Piper Ornatum To ensure the health and vitality of your Piper plants, it’s important to follow some key care tips. Firstly, provide them with the right amount of light. Piper plants generally thrive in bright, indirect light, so placing them near a window with filtered sunlight is ideal. Avoid exposing them to direct sunlight, as it can scorch their leaves. Secondly, maintain proper moisture levels. Piper plants prefer slightly moist soil, but be cautious not to overwater them. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. Additionally, misting the leaves occasionally can help increase humidity, which mimics their natural tropical environment. Lastly, consider fertilizing your Piper plants every two to four weeks during the growing season using a balanced houseplant fertilizer. This will provide them with the necessary nutrients for healthy growth. With these care tips in mind, you’ll be well on your way to fostering thriving and beautiful Piper plants. Piper Crocatum Crystals: Nature’s Ant Protection If you observe the back of a Piper Crocatum leaf, you’ll notice small clear crystals known as exudate. These crystals are completely natural and serve as a means for the plant to release excess sugars through tiny openings in the leaf tissues. Over time, the clear crystals will dry out and oxidize, leaving behind tiny black dots that can be easily rubbed off with your fingers. But what purpose do these crystals serve? It turns out that Piper Crocatum plants have a clever defense mechanism against pests. They secrete sugar crystals on the backs of their leaves, which attract ants. This creates a mutually beneficial partnership between the plant and the ants. The Piper plant provides food for the ants, and in return, the ants protect the plant from potential threats. It’s a remarkable example of nature’s ingenuity! If you notice an abundance of these crystals, it could indicate that your Piper Crocatum is receiving too much light. Excess light leads to increased sugar production through photosynthesis. By reducing the amount of light your plant receives to partial shade (about 8 hours of filtered light per day) and ensuring that the soil remains moist but not overly wet, you can help maintain a healthy balance for your Piper Crocatum. Piper Crocatum vs. Piper Ornatum: Unveiling Contrasting Beauties When it comes to distinguishing between Piper Crocatum and Piper Ornatum, the differences lie not only in their appearance but also beneath their leaves. While both species share South American origins and similar growth habits, there’s a captivating distinction to behold. Piper Crocatum boasts deep purple backsides, providing a stunning contrast to its vibrant yellow and green striped leaves. On the other hand, Piper Ornatum reveals pale green undersides that beautifully complement its lush, glossy green foliage. Moreover, Piper Ornatum delights with its enchanting pink-veined leaves that gracefully vine or climb up trellises or supports. These visual variations make both Piper Crocatum and Piper Ornatum unique and irresistible additions to any plant collection.

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Rooting for Growth: A Beginner’s Guide to Propagating Aroids from Cuttings

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Rooting for Growth: A Beginner’s Guide to Propagating Aroids from Cuttings

  Welcome to the first volume of our propagation tips and techniques blog, where we will be discussing how to propagate aroid plants from cuttings that include nodes and aerial roots. Aroid plants, including Philodendron, Epipremnum, Syngonium, Scindapsus and Monstera, are popular houseplants that are easy to propagate from cuttings. When taking a cutting from an aroid plant, it’s important to include a node. A node is a small bump or ridge on the stem of the plant where the leaves, aerial roots, and new shoots grow from. Nodes are essential for propagation because they contain meristematic tissue, which is responsible for the growth and development of new roots and shoots.   Cuttings without a node and just a leaf will not be able to develop roots and grow into a new plant. This is because the cutting lacks the meristematic tissue found in the node that is responsible for root and shoot development. Therefore, it’s important to make sure the cutting includes a node. To take a cutting from an aroid plant, follow these simple steps: Choose a healthy plant.Select a healthy aroid plant with strong stems and no signs of disease or damage. Find a node.Locate a node on the stem of the plant, where the aerial roots or leaves are growing from. Make the cut.Use a sharp, clean pair of scissors or a knife to make a clean cut below the node. The cutting should be at least 3-4 inches long and include one or two nodes.   Place the cutting in water.Place the cutting in a jar or vase filled with clean, room-temperature water. Make sure the node is submerged in water, but the leaves are not. Change the water every few days to keep it clean and prevent bacteria from growing.   Wait for the roots to growAfter a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing from the node. Once the roots are strong and at least few centimetres long, the cutting is ready to be planted in soil. Better have longer roots than shorter so if you can wait longer, do it.   Plant the cutting in soil.Fill a small pot with potting mix and make a small hole in the center. Insert the cutting into the soil, making sure the node and roots are buried about few centimetres deep. The cutting needs to be stable and all roots need to be covered. Water the soil and place the pot in a bright, warm spot, but avoid direct sunlight. By following these simple steps, you can easily propagate aroid plants from cuttings with nodes and aerial roots. Propagating plants is a fun and easy way to expand your plant collection or share your love of plants with friends and family. Stay tuned for the next volume of our propagation tips and techniques blog, where we will discuss how to propagate another popular houseplant.

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Why is my plant’s soil mouldy?

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

Why is my plant’s soil mouldy?

… and other common soil issues! Plant issues often start with the soil, so to ensure that your plants are as healthy and thriving as possible, we’re gonna take a look at the most common soil related issues, and how to fix them! Poor potting mix can lead to a plethora of problems with your plants, but they can easily be avoided by switching to a quality potting mix. We cannot stress enough how important it is to repot your plants into something light and airy after purchasing them, and it doesn’t have to cost a fortune. In fact, you can improve any potting mix by simply adding perlite and orchid bark to it!Now, some soil issues can be difficult to spot, but most of them are actually quite obvious… if you know what to look for!Let’s take a look at some of the most common ones, and the solutions. Mouldy soil. The root problem here, no pun intended, is a poor potting mix that doesn’t dry out fast enough. Additionally, your plant could also be dealing with over watering, and possibly even poor air circulation in the room. If you ever spot this issue, we suggest repotting your plant into a better aerated potting mix immediately . You can improve the quality of any soil by adding perlite and orchid bark to the mix, so invest in those, as they will always come in handy and last you a long time!In our experience, this hack will work well for pretty much any plant besides cacti.  White stuff on top of your plant’s soil. The white stuff on your plants soil is a buildup of minerals and salts. This is a very common issue in countries where tap water is very hard. To keep this from happening, switch to softer water if you can, like distilled-, filtered-, or rain water. We also suggest removing the affected top layer of soil and replacing it with a fresh mix, as those salts are harmful to your plants. And lastly, give your plant a shower from time to time to wash it all down! Soil is too compact. This one of the most common soil issues, and a very serious problem that can cause a lot of damage to the roots of your plant. And to make matters worse, it’s not the easiest one to spot either!Compact soil doesn’t let water get through, so whenever you water your plant, the liquid flows around the dense substrate, but doesn’t penetrate it. This way, the roots of your plant actually don’t get any of the water you’re watering it with! So if you’ve been wondering why your plant is looking all droopy even right after you’ve just watered it, check the potting mix! The only way to fix this issue is to immediately change the potting mix to something more airy. Little flies around you plants. These little flies that resemble fruit flies are called fungus gnats. Although these guys are not harmful in their mature form, the larvae will feed on your plants roots, making this a potentially serious soil issue. But not to worry, we wrote a whole blog post on how to get rid of them, and you can read it here!

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How to overwinter your tubers

Plant Circle Blog – by Plant Circle

How to overwinter your tubers

In this article new would like to explain how to, and whether you should, overwinter your tuber plants! Did you know that Caladium, Amorphophallus and Xanthosoma all grow from a tuber? And that after the plant dies back, you can remove that tuber from the soil and plant it back later? Plants that grow from tubers usually die back in winter for a resting period of 3-7 months. Technically you can leave the plant in the pot and carry on as usual, as we assume the temperatures in your apartment won’t go below zero, meaning the plant can survive the cold season unaffected. However, if you would like your plant to come back in spring bigger and better than before, read on! 1. Remove the tuber from the soil and clean it well, getting as much excess soil off as possible. 2. Let the tuber dry out for a few days. 3. Once it’s dry to touch, place it in a box with a lid, and fill the box with either wood shavings or shredded paper.  4. Place it in a cool and dark storage with the lid not fully closed so a bit of air comes in. If you’ve followed the above steps to overwinter your tubers, all you have to do now is check back on your tubers once in a while. Once you notice a growth tip, it’s time to plant it back! You can plant Caladiums indoors in March and outdoors when the temperature is above 20 degrees celsius. When planting your Amorphohallus again, make sure that you place the tuber deep under the soil as the roots grow from the above the tube. This is so the tuber can support that beautiful, long stalk! When planting your Caladiums, make sure that the tuber is facing rings up, as this is where the plant will grow from. The tuber should be about 3-4 cm deep and you’ll need to keep it above approximately 24 degrees celsius for it to sprout. Tubers should be kept in moist, but not soggy, soil to sprout. Once new growth appears they should be watered often enough to keep the soil evenly moist, but again, never soggy! More detailed information on Amorphophallus, and how to grow them, can be found here.Happy planting!

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